Eye Candy Friday: Cartier, LeVian and Van Cleef & Arpels

LeVian: Rarest Blue-Green Paraiba Tourmaline Gemstone

High jewelry is always fun to see, whether it's due to the spectacular design of top jewelers or the clean, heirloom-quality gemstones. What’s not to like? Well, the price, which has so many zeros that regular wage-earners can’t afford to buy it. At least we are spared the temptation, right? And we can be inspired to find budget-friendlier pieces that give us the characteristics we find attractive. 

Cartier’s Pathère Collection of white and yellow diamonds, or diamonds and emeralds

Nonetheless, never buy the so called more affordable lines from Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, or Bulgari, etc., etc, etc., because these same luxury brands that craft the high jewelry we admire charge inflated prices for their lesser lines, and you’ll pay thousands of dollars mainly for the names alone, not for the amount of gold or the quality of gemstones you’ll get. LeVian is the exception, as it sells its lower-end consumer-grade jewelry at major department stores such as Macy’s, which also runs its own sales.

The center vivid yellow diamond weighs 10 carats.

One place where you don't pay the inflated markup charged by the luxury brands named will surprise you. Costco! The discount retailer applies a low markup of roughly 14% to 15% on its fine jewelry. Unlike at Harry Winston, Cartier, or Van Cleef & Arpels, at Costco you’re paying for the gold, gemstones, and a small markup to keep the lights on, not a 500% markup for a fancy box, tissue paper, and a name.

Costco sells real gold and sterling silver. In the USA, real gold is regulated by stamps that state its purity, either by karat designation or fineness number (representing parts per 1000 of pure gold and you will see these marks at Costco:

- 24K (999): 99.9% pure gold (24 out of 24 parts)
- 18K (750): 75% pure gold
- 14K (585): 58.5% pure gold
- 10K (417): 41.7% gold, which is the minimum karat allowed to be sold as "solid gold" in the United States. 

Likewise, real sterling silver is marked 925 (92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metal to harden it) in the USA.

LaVian Neon Blue Paraiba Tourmaline™

So now let’s oogle the very expensive high jewelry pieces and cute leopard.

All images are from the respective jewelers’ ads or websites. Google the name of the collection for more information on the pieces. A look is all I need today since buying them is as out of the question for a Savvy Shopper as petting that pretty predatory leopard: "Goodness, what big teeth you have!"🐆

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What Is Black and Colored Gold?

Photo: Jewelry Point

The short answer is black gold and colored gold are alloys. They are made by mixing pure yellow gold with other metals. Pure 24k (100%) gold is too soft to wear as jewelry, so it is mixed with a percentage of other metals to strengthen it. Topically, jewelry is 18k (75% gold + 25% other metals), 14k (58.3% gold +41.7% other metals, or 10k gold (41.7% gold + 58.3% other metals). We are used to seeing alloys of yellow, silver, and rose gold, and I’ve written a prior post about them here. But did you know about black gold, green gold, blue gold, and purple gold?

Jewelers make black gold with special heating to create oxidation, or by mixing yellow gold with cobalt. Green gold is yellow gold combined with silver, copper, or cadmium. Blue gold is created by mixing yellow gold with indium or gallium, and purple gold is made by blending yellow gold with aluminum.

I’ve only seen yellow, white, and rose gold in jewelry stores, and I’ve never seen anyone wear the other colors of gold. Reportedly, black gold is having its day, and yet I’m not a fan.

To each his own, but what I love about jewelry is its shine and sparkle. Of course, what we like is what we’ve grown accustomed to seeing, so black, blue, green, or purple gold seem more like custom jewelry than real gold.

Nowadays, gold is so expensive, I’d be reluctant to splurge on what seems like novelty fine jewelry. What about you? Another jewelry lover might covet the uniqueness of black or colored gold.

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3 of the World's Most Durable Gemstones

Photo: Geology.in: Click to go to the website to learn more about garnets. Usually the Hessonite hue is more of a cinnamon orange.

Gemstone durability is a blend of 3 major characteristics: Hardness, toughness, and strength. Hardness is its resistance to scratches. Toughness stops breaking, cracking, and chipping. How tightly a gemstone's atoms are packed together determines its toughness. A gemstone's strength measures its resistance to shattering under pressure (i.e., how hard it is to crush).

Spessartite Garnet

If you're looking for everyday jewelry that will endure, the following 3 gemstones always top the lists of jewelry insiders. Two of the 3 gemstones are so under the public's radar, and thus less in demand, they are also good value for the money.

I. Jewelry experts consider garnet a wildly underrated gemstone. The jewel is a whole family of minerals that comes in a wide array of intense colors. With a 7.5 rating on Mohl’s Scale of Hardness, a garnet is hard enough for everyday rings. But that’s not the whole story; a garnet has no cleavage, giving it excellent toughness. A vivid green garnet, known as tsavorite, is far cheaper, cleaner, and tougher than emeralds, with none of an emerald’s fragility for chipping, cracking, or breaking. Unlike emeralds, garnets do not need oiling to hide industry-accepted inclusions. Rodolite (a combination of pink, red, and purple) exudes a raspberry hue. Spessartite is a fiery orange, and Demantoid sparkles more than diamonds.

Wikepedia

II. Another hard, tough, strong, and underrated gemstone is spinel, with an 8 in hardness. Spinel (MgAl2O4) grows in the same mines as rubies and, for centuries, was mistaken for a ruby (Al2O3). The only reason spinel is overlooked is that it lacks the marketing push of diamonds. Collectors understand the beauty, durability, and true value of spinel. Insiders predict that once the public catches on, the price of spinels will skyrocket. 

Photo: GIA

III. The last, most durable gemstone for everyday wear is the priciest of the 3 but worth considering as an alternative gemstone for engagement rings: Corundum has a 9 hardness rating. Rubies (red corundum is more expensive because red gemstones in nature are rarer). All other colors of corundum are sapphires. Corundum is a more durable gemstone than diamonds. They are often selected by royalty (Diana and Catherine of Wales, the York princesses) for their engagement rings, and jewelers buy them for their own family. I met a jeweler at Tiffany's who bought herself a 3.5-carat blue sapphire ring, and a jeweler at Effy who bought a sapphire ring for his daughter that will last forever!

Jewlery isn't cheap, so it pays to know which gemstones have the best combination of durability. 

💍💎💍💎

A blue spinel

Other gemstones insiders cite for durability include Alexandrite (a 9.5 in hardness), Moissanite (9.5), and Jade (6 - 7). The coveats with them are: Alexandrite is rare and thus super expensive. Moissanite is very affordable, but always lab-grown. Jade, the softest on the list, can be scratched if careless, so durable yet not to be banged around, set in rings.

Which of the durable gemstones appeals to you? I wish I owned blue and red spinels. Vietnam grows vivid blue ones.

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What Makes Green Diamonds?

From Instagram - The Aurora

After writing last Thursday's blog, I got curious about green diamonds. I don’t recall ever seeing one. This might be because they make up less than 0.1% of all fancy-colored diamonds on earth. After red, green diamonds are the 2nd rarest diamonds. Unlike most diamonds that get their colors from chemical impurities entering their atomic structure, green diamonds get their color from natural radiation. Over millions of years, alpha and beta rays emitted by radioactive minerals knock carbon atoms out of place in the crystal structure, changing how the stone absorbs light. In other words, radiation exposure creates carbon atom vacancies. This vacancy defect, also known as the GR1 center in a diamond, causes the green color.

According to Only National Diamonds, radiation from alpha particles usually only penetrates a few micrometers deep, leaving a shallow green "skin" on rough stones. Diamond cutters must plan and facet the gem with expert precision to evenly distribute this color throughout the stone. It may explain why we see more radiant cuts in this fancy colored gemstone. The radiant cut’s faceting maximizes light reflection, which intensifies and saturates the color of the stone, making it appear more vivid.

A very few green diamonds are also colored by more complex defects involving nitrogen, hydrogen, or nickel.

The world’s natural green diamonds come from South America and Africa. Nowadays, laboratory irradiation can also produce green diamonds. It’s challenging to tell natural-grown and lab-grown green diamonds apart. Both are real diamonds. It’s unlawful to sell lab-grown diamonds without transparency.

The scarcity of green diamonds makes them very pricey. Just like other colored gemstones, color is the most important of the fancy diamond Cs (followed by cut, carat, and clarity) in determining value. As their color becomes more saturated and vibrant, prices rise dramatically. Based on their GIA color intensity grade for a 1-carat stone, a Fancy Green color costs from $50,000 - $100,000; a Fancy Intense Green costs between $150,000 - $200,000, and a Fancy Vivid Green costs $300,000+.

Photo: Wikipedia
The Dresden Green Diamond

The Dresden Green, a 41-carat diamond originating from India’s Golconda mines, is the largest and most famous natural green diamond in the world. It is a chemically pure IIa diamond with VS1 clarity. Frederick Augustus II, Elector of Saxony and King of Poland, paid 400,000 thalers for the diamond in 1741. Perhaps someone should have told Diespach, the court jeweler of Saxony, that fads come and go before, in 1768, he mounted the Dresden Green as an elaborate hat ornament surrounded by 411 white diamonds.😁 Today, it is on display in the Green Vault at Dresden Castle in Germany. The renowned green diamond survived the Seven Years’ War, the Napoleonic Wars, World Wars I and II, its confiscation by the Soviets, who returned it to Dresden in 1958, and the 2019 Dresden Museum heist of royal jewels. Thankfully, at the time of the theft, the Dresden Green was on loan to the Metropolitan Museum in Manhattan.

The Aurora Green (👆top image) is a 5.02 carat Fancy Vivid Green rectangular radiant cut diamond with VS2 clarity. The Aurora Green is surrounded by pink diamonds set in a ring. Found in Brazil, it sold for a wooping $16.8 million, the most expensive price ever paid for a green diamond, at Christie’s Hong Kong in 2016. Chow Tai Fook Jewellery bought it. Without fluorescence, its GIA-rated Fancy Green color is one of a kind!

Photo: Jewelry Point

Personally, I’d rather pay less money to get a bigger, more common white (clear) diamond. Other jewelry lovers may covet uniqueness over size. 

Ultra-rare fancy-colored diamonds are so wildly expensive that customers fork over a ton of moola for a tiny stone, so I wouldn’t buy, but visit them at Tiffany’s New York flagship store or the museums around the world that house them. First a dreamer, then a realist ... and perhaps an adventurous traveler is the way to get more bang for your buck!💚

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Gemstone Brittleness And Cleavage

These are Macy’s commercial-grade gemstones - amethyst, garnet, fancy colored sapphires, citrine, ruby, and emerald.

Earrings, necklaces, and bracelets take fewer knocks, but if you splurge on a ring, for durability, you might want to consider a gemstone's brittleness and cleavage, along with its hardness.

Princess Grace's ring

Hardness refers to a gemstone's rating from 1 (softest) to 10 (hardest) on Mohs' Hardness Scale, which reflects its resistance to surface scratching. While a diamond rates a 10 for hardness, it's actually a brittle gemstone that, upon impact, will crack more easily than other gemstones.

Queen Camila's ring

Cleavage is the gemstone's grain. Just like with beef or wood, a crystalline structure (meaning its atomic arrangement) is internally symmetrical. Cleavage refers to natural, predictable planes of weakness within a gemstone's structure where its atomic bonds are frail. These are the areas where a crystal is more likely to shatter.

Wallis Simpson's ring

Brittleness describes how easily a stone breaks or chips if struck. All faceted gemstones are considered brittle, yet how brittle they are depends on their cleavage. A gemstone's cleavage is a major factor in its brittleness and significantly lowers its toughness.

Queen Marguritta II's ring

So what is toughness? If a stone has excellent cleavage (like a diamond or topaz), hitting it at the exact right angle along that plane can cause it to split cleanly in two. Toughness describes a gemstone's resistance to breaking, chipping, or cracking when a heavy blow is applied. As it happens, diamonds have perfect cleavage planes in 4 directions, giving them relatively poor toughness. Despite being the hardest stone on Earth, a perfectly placed hit can cause diamonds to split along their planes (i.e., grains) just like a piece of wood.

Queen Victoria's ring

A cutter of gemstones uses this knowledge to determine how to cut a gemstone. Customers can use it to buy safer and more durable gemstones for everyday wear.

Some gemstones, such as sapphires and rubies, have no cleavage. Their tightly packed atomic structures resist breaking, making them far less brittle and giving them much higher toughness over diamonds to wear as daily rings.

Emeralds have imperfect cleavage in one direction (basal cleavage). Their cleavage and natural internal inclusions (jardins) make them brittle and prone to chipping.

Josephine Beauharnais' ring

Tough Gemstones For Daily Rings are:

Corundum (ruby and sapphire), spinel, alexandrite, moissanites, quartz (amethyst, citrine, agate, jasper), jade (both types), garnets, and turquoise.

High Risk Gemstones for Daily Rings include:

Emerald, topaz, tanzanite, moonstone, sunstone, labradorite, kuzite, and diamond.

Queen Maxima’s ring

Still, if you love the higher-risk gemstones and yearn to wear them as everyday rings, you can do so by selecting protective bezel or halo settings; remove them when you work or wash your hands; and (less desirable) only wear them for special occasions. In other words, be mindful and prepared to baby them. 

jardins in an emerald 

Frankly, I think we should never work or wash our hands with soap without removing all our gemstone rings. I keep a ring holder by the kitchen sink and take off my rings whenever cleaning. Jewelry is never cheap, so why take unnecessary risks? You always want to keep gemstones pristine and sparkling! 

 Queen Alexandra (Alix of Denmark), Queen Letizia of Spain, Diana & Catherine of Wales rings

Famous royal engagement rings are featured throughout today's blog, but no one needs to be engaged to wear a ring!

Ring holder with my fun to wear, inexpensive white sapphire ring

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Michael Gabriels Lab Created Diamond Jewelry

Michael Gabriels lab-grown diamond ring

Diamonds over 2 carats increase in price exponentially, not linearly, because eye-clean, bigger diamonds are rarer and in demand. The jewelry industry uses the term magic sizes to describe the price jump at round numbers that occur at .05, 1.00, 2.00, 3.00 carats and up. If you buy a natural diamond ring slightly below the round numbers, for example, at 2.95 carats, you’ll pay less but get the same effect as a 3.00 carat diamond ring.

Nowadays, people who desire bigger carats are considering lab-grown diamonds for at least 50% less than the cost of natural diamonds of the same size and quality. Lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds. Just like natural-grown diamonds, lab-grown diamonds are pure carbon arranged in a crystal lattice. They have the exact same chemical, physical, and optical properties as natural diamonds. The difference between the two is their origins. Natural diamonds are created over billions of years in the earth, while lab-grown diamonds are created in weeks in a laboratory using advanced technology that mimics the natural geological process of diamond formation. 

Do you want to know how lab diamonds are created? Two methods are used: High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT), which mimics the Earth’s mantle, and Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD), which uses carbon-rich gas to grow diamond crystals atom by atom. Both methods produce 100% real diamonds. HPHT produces high-quality, often larger crystals and intensely colored diamonds with strong, consistent crystals, while CVD offers greater control, producing exceptional clarity and larger, high-quality, colorless stones such as pure type 2a (IIa) diamonds (i.e. diamonds without metallic inclusions, which are very, very rare in natural diamonds). Only an expert with a spectroscopy in a laboratory can tell a natural diamond and a lab diamond apart. Natural diamonds usually contain small amounts of nitrogen gas that become incorporated into the diamond structure. UV light (fluorescence) can highlight the growth structure of the diamond being tested. Lab-grown diamonds can also be identified by the types of inclusions they might show. CVD, HPHT, and natural diamonds will all have their own distinctive inclusions. Type 2a diamonds produced by the CVD method are the most chemically pure type of diamond, containing no measurable nitrogen, boron, or metallic impurities. They have exceptional transparency and brilliance, comprising less than 2% of gem-quality diamonds. Of course, that would add to their expense.

Often, you pay 50%-70% less for lab-grown diamonds, which usually have better color (D-F) and clarity (VS1) than natural diamonds. In other words, customers get a bigger, cleaner stone for less money. More sparkle! Natural diamonds fetch a higher resale value. But jewelry isn’t an investment, and you should only think of it as a luxury buy, since you’ll usually lose money by selling your jewelry.

Lab-grown diamonds are lowering the price of both natural and lab diamonds as more retailers enter the market and more people buy them.

Michael Gabriels, a 3rd-generation New York jeweler at 46 Howard Street in Soho specializes in lab-grown diamond jewelry with stellar craftsmanship, beautiful design, and good reviews for attentive customer service. Good craftsmanship is vital. You want to buy excellent cut diamonds. In a tennis bracelet or necklace, you want all the diamonds to have matching color and clarity. With regular promotions, you can also score a deal.

Lab-grown diamond jewelry isn’t cheap, but it’s sustainable and considered a better value because you can get more carats and better color and clarity for a lot less moola! No longer must customers spend 5-figures to buy a bigger or cleaner carat diamond ring, bracelet, or pair of earrings!

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Celebrities In Diamond Stud Earrings

Photo: here- Click to enlarge photos you want to see.

A luxury item I covet but will never buy is a relatively huge 4+ carat pair of diamond stud earrings. 4-carat diamond studs can cost anywhere from $30,000 - $50,000+ for natural diamonds. Prices are determined by cut, carat, color, and clarity. Customers might consider G-H/SI or F-G/VS, which are of decent quality.

Well, that’s a lot of moola for a single piece of jewelry, isn’t it? Obviously, I was born into the wrong class in society! But, you know what? I will still indulge my love of diamond stud earrings on this blog!

Let’s do a roundup of celebrities who are lucky enough to either work in lucrative fields, or are born into families of wealth, or can borrow their jewelry from famous designers. I’d be fine and dandy with borrowing jewelry! Wearing diamonds without having to buy them is a fabulous deal!

Not all these famous ladies are wearing the biggest diamond studs. Some may even be lab-grown diamonds or not diamonds at all. Only they know.

I wonder if Jennifer Lopez and Angelina Jolie borrowed their diamond studs to attend an awards show? Kelly Clarkson may have treated herself for all the shows and TV spots she does.

Michelle Williams, Michelle Obama, Judge Judy, and Simone Biles likely own the diamond studs they're wearing. All have had enough success to buy them.

Kylie Jenner and Hailey Bieber

Diamond studs of all sizes look great on everyone of all ages in all professions. What’s more, lab-grown diamonds are making diamond stud earrings more accessible to average wage earners, and the technology is improving all the time. Still not cheap, but diamond prices, both natural and lab-grown, are falling! Since 1st on the market, lab-grown diamonds have decreased by as much as 75%! Lab-grown diamonds are physically, chemically, and optically identical to gemstones formed over billions of years in the Earth. The only difference is their origin ... they are created in a laboratory, and only a jeweler using a special loupe can tell the difference.

Diamonds over 2 carats increase exponentially in price. Lab-grown white sapphires in 925 silver are a winning substitute for diamonds if you covet bigger stones without breaking the bank.

It’s all beautiful eye candy to us glitter-lovers!

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Should You Buy Fine Jewelry Today?

Don’t get me wrong, I like quality and looking polished and coordinated, but I’m not a luxury bag, shoes, or apparel maven. Fine jewelry is my luxury temptation of choice, which is just as much of a luxury buy as a Hermès handbag. Therefore, who am I to judge? We don’t buy luxury goods because we need them, but because we want, ummm, love them, and they are not true investments like a stock portfolio.

Fortunately, I have a small capsule (not a collection) of commercial-grade (not heirloom-grade) fine jewelry and gifts I got for a special birthday or graduation, or a few pieces I saved up to buy as a wage earner over the years.

But would I advise buying fine jewelry at today’s prices? Sadly, I don’t think so. Like Chanel bags, Dior frocks, or Christian Louboutin heels, fine jewelry is significantly marked up in response to demand, and let's call it, created perceptions of greater value. Additionally, today we are being charged thousands of dollars for not a lot of gold. Skimpy chains, bands, and bracelets have gotten shockingly expensive!

IMHO, these 3 bracelets from Brilliant Earth are gorgeous ... what a classy stack! Would you like to know how much it would cost a customer to buy them? Here’s the breakdown in US dollars ...

Sol Starburst Diamond 7” Bracelet (1/8 ct. wt) in 14k yellow gold. Cost: $3,595

Diamond Flexible Tennis Bangle Bracelet (1 1/3 ct. tw.) in 18K White Gold $3,595

Sol Slim 6.5 In. Bracelet in 14K Yellow Gold. Cost:$2,350

Total cost before taxes: $9,540 

Such a tidy sum is not practical for an average wage earner, despite the lovely aesthetics. The individual bracelets are not the thickest!

In fact, the price of gold has hit record highs of over $4,700 per ounce at this time. Driven by geopolitical tensions and central bank buying, gold has experienced a sharp long-term upward trend. 

THE SAVVY SHOPPER will continue to feature fine jewelry as it’s too pretty not to, but as a value shopper, I can’t in good faith tell anyone to splurge on it. You’ll have to decide for yourself whether or not to empty your bank account. 

Oh, my goodness, 6 bangles would double the tab! If I were to spend $9,540 - $19,080+ on jewelry, I would spend it on a single piece with the biggest single diamond I could buy, rather than a stack with multiple single diamonds, because a bigger diamond would be easier to sell on the pre-loved market if the owner absolutely needed money.*

With graduations and weddings in the future, what are your thoughts on buying fine jewelry at today’s prices? Is it worth it?!?

*BTW: Bigger gemstones are rarer (so cost more) than small diamonds. Tennis bracelets are pricey because of demand + the price of gold + the color of the diamonds must match, and a ton of diamonds are sifted through to find matching colors. {Clean Origins is known to own its own diamonds and offer above-average customer service. This blog is not sponsored.} 

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