The 3 Other Precious Gemstones In The Raw

Recently I wrote a blog about raw rubies before they are cut, polished and turned into jewelry. Today I’m posting images of the 3 other precious gemstones in the raw. When we visualize gemstones, mostly we see them as the sparklers they become after craftsmen and jewelers get their hands on them like the above Harry Winston diamond ring. Not how them start or grow in nature, but how they are finished, right? So let's look at a few images of gemstones as they are found in nature.

I. Diamonds are a single element. Formula: C. A diamond is an allotrope of the element carbon. Its structure is a rigid three-dimensional lattice where each carbon atom is bonded to four other carbon atoms in a tetrahedral arrangement. A diamond’s atoms are arranged in a crystal structure called a diamond cubic. The gemstone rates a 10 on Mohs Hardness Scale. BTW: graphite, charcoal, and diamond are all allotropes of the element carbon.

⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧

The Aga Khan Emerald brooch and the Chalk Emerald ring

II. Emeralds - are beryls, a mineral. Its formula, Be3Al2(SiO3)6, is colored green by trace amounts of chromium or sometimes vanadium. On Mohs Hardness Scale emeralds rate an 8. They were formed under the most violent of geologic conditions, which is why less than 1% of the world’s emeralds are eye clean. Unlike diamonds, inclusions and surface breaking fissures called  jardins are common and accepted in emerads. 

⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧ ๋࣭ ⭑✧⋆ ๋࣭ ⭑✧

The Swedish royal family's Leuchtenberg Sapphire tiara and an unheated Kashmir 9.38 sapphire ring sold by Christie’s

III. Sapphires - are a variety of the mineral corundum. Its formula, α-Al2O3 consists of the elements aluminum oxide with trace amounts of iron, titanium, cobalt, lead, chromium, vanadium, magnesium, boron, and silicon. Sapphires register a 9 on Mohs Hardness scale. Blue is the most in demand color. When sapphires are yellow, orange, purple, pink, or green they are called fancy sapphires. When corundrms are red, they are rubies, not sapphires.

Gemstones take millions of years for the Earth to produce, or nowadays they can be grown in a lab, but it takes the artistry of human hands to turn these majestic crystals, beryls, and corundums into gorgeous pieces of jewelry. The next time you see a gemstone think of its journey and how many hands went into crafting it into a thing of beauty.

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#Shorts: Jeweler Terry Quinn's 5 Ways to Save On Lab Grown Diamonds

As stated again and again on THE SAVVY SHOPPER, lab-grown diamonds are physically, chemically, and optically the same as natural (mined) diamonds. Nowadays the process of growing diamonds in a lab has gotten so good that jewelers and customers alike can't tell them apart. If diamonds are grown in a lab, it must be stated so on the diamond because it is so difficult to tell them apart.

Note that lab-grown diamonds cost far less than natural diamonds and therefore don't have the resale value but you should never buy diamonds as an investment anyway as you'll rarely if ever get what you paid for them. Diamonds are a luxury purchase, things of beauty, not an investment.

Today I'm sharing a YouTube video by a jeweler who has a brick-and-mortar store in Woodbridge, Virginia. Jeweler Terry Quinn expertly explains how to save money when selecting diamonds. Today's tips focus exclusively on buying lab-grown diamonds detailing his 5 tips on saving the most money when buying them. Worth a listen as I can't summarize his professional advice any more succinctly. (Remember jewelers must look at and buy a lot of diamonds to have stock for their customers.)

The first tip I learned from Terry today is to go with IGI ratings when buying lab-grown diamonds and GIA ratings when buying natural-grown diamonds. IGI and GIA are both reputable diamond grading institutions that use advanced technology and skilled gemologists to certify diamonds but until the perception changes GIA is still the most trusted for natural diamonds. GIA grades fewer lab-grown diamonds than IGI. Lab-grown diamonds will be more expensive and the selection of diamonds less if rated by GIA.

A 2nd tip I learned today was the 2 ways of creating lab diamonds CVD (chemical vapor deposition) and HPHT (high pressure high temperature) have caught up with each other. Both methods are effective in creating high-quality, authentic diamonds, identical to those found in nature. Until recently HPHT lab-created diamonds were whiter and they continue to cost more because of perception leading to their greater demand.

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The Rose Diamond Bandeau

Queen Mary of Denmark has a new tiara! The Danish royal family has the tradition of preserving its history by repurposing old jewelry that is no longer worn into new contemporary pieces, and this is what Queen Mary did when commissioning her new tiara. It joins Denmark's Crown Jewels.

Called the Rose Diamond Bandeau, the new Danish tiara features rose-cut natural diamonds that were once part of a diamond girdle (or belt) owned by Princess Charlotte Amalie of Denmark (1706 - 1782), daughter of Frederick IV. Suffice it to say nobody wears a diamond girdle anymore, but royals still wear tiaras and crowns for coronations, royal weddings, and state banquets. 

Old Diamond Cuts including the Rose and Old Mine Cuts

The effect created by cutting gemstones has changed over time with the advancement of new tools. Rose-cut diamonds are an old style of diamond-cutting by hand that has been replaced by today's brilliant-cut diamonds to enhance a gemstone's sparkle. Unlike brilliant-cut diamonds, rose-cut diamonds lack a pointy bottom pavilion. Instead, they have a flatter bottom and feature a dome crown of only 3 to 24 facets, which is fewer than the brilliant-cut's 57 to 58 facets. A rose-cut diamond is meant to glow under candlelight in lieu of flashing all over the room. Often it is described as a romantic cut of diamond.

The photos I've uploaded here are courtesy of the Royal Danish House and Royal Danish Collection. The above image on the left shows us the original girdle. Here's a link to explain more about the history of the piece and the process of changing it into a tiara if you're interested in knowing the details.

The images of Queen Mary of Denmark show her premiering her new Rose Diamond Bandeau in December 2024 at a State Dinner for Egypt. 

The press has mentioned how the mounting of the Rose Diamond Bandeau is similar to the Dutch Diamond Bandeau, a favorite tiara of Queen Maxima of the Netherlands. The Dutch Diamond Bandeau tiara, once a Queen's necklace, has its own history. As it turns out, its giant diamonds are old mine-cut diamonds in contrast to the Danish tiara's rose-cut diamonds. 

Brilliant, Rose, and Old Mine Cut Diamonds

BTW, a bandeau tiara is defined as a hairpiece comprised of a single row of gemstones. Usually, the bottoms of diamonds are enclosed, not exposed as in other styles of tiaras.

Queen vs Commoner🙂 As an ordinary person who doesn't host or attend state dinners, a bandeau tiara reminds me of a row of diamonds on a tennis bracelet. For sure a single row of big ole diamonds is lovely in all forms of jewelry!

Well done, Queen Mary.😍

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Elizabeth Taylor's Legendary Jewelry

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Elizabeth Taylor's Legendary Jewelry

Today I'll do a roundup of 5 pieces of the late actress Elizabeth Taylor's legendary jewelry, excluding her gorgeous emerald suite linked here in a previous blog. She loved jewelry as much as I do but unlike me, had the jet-set lifestyle to amass an exquisite collection. Hers was one of the most expensive private collections in the world. To be sure, the late film star loved jewelry for the all right reasons, not for its bloated monetary value but for the sparkle and beauty of the gemstones enhanced by the master craftsmanship of Cartier, Harry Winston, and Bulgari. During her lifetime, sometimes she invited people she was fond of into her bedroom to show and play with her jewelry. How fun ... and what a woman! So let's take a look at the 5 items I've selected to feature: 

1. The Taylor Burton Diamond (See first 3 images above👆) - At 69.42 carats, originally named the Cartier diamond by the jeweler who cut a massive white diamond into 2 magnificent diamonds, then sold the largest one to 5th and 6th husband, Richard Burton. Cartier said it was one of the most flawless pear-shaped diamonds in the world. The actress asked Cartier to create a necklace (as it was too big to wear as a ring) with smaller pear-shaped diamonds to showcase the large stone. After divorcing Richard Burton twice, Elizabeth sold the diamond in 1979 for $3 million, half of which she gave to charity. I wish I could say, it's in my jewelry box, but its whereabouts are unknown today.

 2) Cartier Ruby and Diamond Necklace, Bracelet, and Earrings - We're looking at unheated red pigeon blood Burmese rubies set with circular and baguette-cut diamond latticework. Given to her by one of the 2 loves of her life, 3rd husband, Mike Todd, and sold by Taylor's 4 children in 2011. The necklace fetched $3,778,500 at auction. The bracelet sold for $842,500, and the earrings for $782,500. 

3) The Mike Todd Diamond Tiara - A late 19th-century antique, the diamond tiara was another gift from Taylor's 3rd husband, movie producer Mike Todd in 1957. Old mine cut diamonds are set in platinum and gold with latticework. The family sold the tiara in 2011 at auction for $4,226,500.

4) - The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond Ring - Formally known as the Krupp diamond, the 33.19-carat Asscher-cut diamond is flanked by 2 tapered baguette-cut diamonds mounted in platinum. Another gift from husband and 2nd love of her life, Richard Burton, the diamond is D color, VS1 clarity, and is said to be Elizabeth's favorite piece of jewelry which considering her collection is really saying something! In 1968 Richard Burton paid $307,000 for the ring, and the family sold it in 2011 for $8,818,500.

5. The La Peregrina Pearl - The La Peregrina is the most symmetrical natural pear-shaped pearl ever discovered. Its original weight was 55.95 carats but in 2013 the pearl had to be drilled and cleaned to secure it to its setting which reduced its weight to 50.56 carats still making it one of the largest perfectly symmetrical pear-shaped pearls known to exist in the world. The pear-shaped pearl measures approximately 17.35 - 17.90 x 25.50 mm. The gem is steeped in history, legend, and allure. It was found by an African slave in the Gulf of Panama in 1513 (who is said to have earned his freedom for finding it) and sent to Philip II {Habsburg} who elevated the pearl to a Crown Jewel of Spain. The La Peregrina became a favorite of Spanish Queens starting with Philip II's 2nd wife Queen Mary I {Tudor} of England. In 1808 Emperor Napolean {of France} made his older brother, Joseph Bonaparte the King of Spain, but 5 years later after Napolean was defeated and Joseph kicked out of Spain, Older Brother took some of the Spanish Crown Jewels, including the La Peregrina pearl into exile, which he left in his will to his nephew, the future Napolean III of France. Later after Napoleon III lost his throne, he sold the pearl to an English aristocrat, James Hamilton, in whose family it stayed until 1969. Actor Richard Burton bought the pearl at the Sotheby's auction for $37,000. Elizabeth Taylor commissioned Cartier to re-design the necklace, setting the La Peregrina with additional pearls, diamonds, and rubies. As I said above, what a woman! It was sold in 2011 by Christie's in the Taylor estate sale for a record-breaking $11,400,000 to an anonymous buyer. The Elizabeth Taylor jewelry auctioned realised a total of $115, 932,000, much more than anticipated.

Elizabeth Taylor, Queen Mary I of England and Queen (Consort) Marie-Louise (d'Orleans) of Spain

As a jewelry lover and regular person, I hope these majestic pieces come up for auction again and find their way into a museum for all of us to enjoy for the price of admission. It's the only way any of us will ever get close to these sparklers! However, if you lived close to Christie's in 2011 you could've stepped into the auction house for a viewing before the auction.

Do you have a favorite?

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Blue Diamonds Hold The Earth's Secrets

Photo: IFLScience

Full disclosure: I'm not a scientist and I don't want to take credit for the work of others. All I can do is read a bunch of sources, then put some of the facts together so you don't have to read all those sources yourself. The following is a paraphrasing -- the Turner "CliffsNotes" -- from several sources on a subject I love covering ... gemstones and jewelry! In today's blog, let's learn more about blue diamonds!

Photo: The Hope Diamond - Smithsonian

Only 1 out of 200,000 diamonds are blue. Like all other diamonds blue diamonds were formed billions of years ago when the element carbon was exposed to extreme heat and pressure deep in the earth's mantle. Clear (a/k/a white) diamonds are pure carbon. If traces of boron contaminate the carbon during its growth, a blue diamond is created. The industry calls all colored diamonds fancy diamonds.

Photo: MID: Okavango Blue

Scientists are intrigued by the origin of blue diamonds because they hold many of the earth's secrets. Once an enchanting mystery, gemologists now think they understand how these extremely rare blue gemstones came about. It also gives us clues about the evolution of the earth, itself. After the Gemological Institute of America conducted studies using lasers to uncover impurities (minerals) that got trapped inside blue diamonds, the experts started to assemble a picture of how and where blue diamonds were formed.

Photo: Getty - The Blue

Based on their discoveries, scientists know that blue diamonds were formed much deeper in the earth (below 410 miles) than other diamonds (formed between 90 miles - 125 miles below the earth's surface). It is believed that boron in the ocean floor "was pushed down when plates that make up the Earth's crust collided," making the diamonds appear blue. (According to researchers, boron lets the diamonds "absorb some red light, so the diamonds look blue.")

Getty - The Oppenheimer

Diamond deposits formed very deep within the earth eventually reach the surface by volcanic eruptions.

Now we know how some of the big rare blue gemstones such as the Hope Diamond and Oppenheimer Diamond were born. Billions of years ago Mother Nature had to come together in just the right way to produce them and for humans to find and have them all these years later.

Heart of Eternity

Both blue and white diamonds are graded using the 4 Cs: cut, clarity, color, and carat. But! Blue diamonds are so rare and in demand for their beauty, that they tend to cost more per carat than white diamonds. The blue diamonds that become well-known and fetch millions of dollars at auctions invoke excitement and fame because their unique size, color, and clarity are so rare.

Mouawad Blue

As it happens I don't have any blue diamond jewelry. Diamonds are valued for their sparkle and brilliance. Colored gemstones will have less sparkle than white diamonds. Their value is determined by the vividness, tone, and saturation of their color. Vivid blue diamonds are so rare and expensive that we get less for the money than if we buy white (a/k/a clear) diamonds. I have never been tempted to buy blue diamonds because blue diamonds aren't very budget-friendly, and I don't want to spend a lot of money on faint or tiny blue diamonds! I'd rather compromise by buying a commercial-grade sapphire.

The good news is scientists can make blue diamonds in a lab. Laboratory diamonds are grown in an artificial setting that mimics how diamonds grow naturally below the earth's mantle. Lab-grown diamonds are getting better and more plentiful all the time, which is lowering the prices per carat of all diamonds! 

The color of these blue diamond earrings looks enhanced. You never see such dazzling blue diamonds in jewelry display cases! They did, however, inspire me to write the blog. Wouldn't we love to own real blue diamond earrings just like them? Of course we would!:)💙🔵  

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