Admiring Rubies In The Raw

Today I want to feature high quality rubies in their natural state. I’d be trilled to find such a precious red crystal before it was cut and turned into jewelry. I’m not sure I’d want to cut or polish it. Previously I’ve written about rubies detailing their properties and value, which I’ll link below.👇The main purpose of this blog is to fawn over uncut rubies!

In the jewelry world, rubies are one of the rarest and most coveted gemstones. The red corundum derives its color from traces of chromium. All other colors of gem-quality corundum are classified as sapphires, including pink corundum. Gemologists and jewelers expect a medium to medium-dark red color tone for a gemstone to be considered a genuine ruby. Corundums of lighter coloration are pink sapphires. A ruby's exclusive red color can reach high levels of saturation. Due to their rarity, premium quality rubies are among the world's most expensive gemstones, selling for over $1 million per carat.

Historically, Myanmar (formerly called Burma) was the most renowned source for high-saturation with fluorescence, or "pigeon's blood," rubies. But in 2009 major deposits of high quality rubies were discovered in Mozambique to rival Myanmar rubies. Vietnam and Madagascar also grow similar high quality rubies.

Since there are few gemstone quality high saturation rubies in nature, rubies undergo more treatments than nearly all other gemstones before being turned into jewelry, greatly affecting their market value. Most commercial rubies are at least heat-treated, an accepted practice as long as it’s disclosed and reflected in its retail price. Without treatment there would be few rubies to sell.

A lovely affordable raw ruby bracelet here from an unfamiliar retailer.

Aren’t these blocks of uncut vibrant red gemstones beautiful? Especially when knowing that not all natural ruby crystals are gemstone quality. If you want to know more about gemstone quality rubies, you can click the links below.

If you found a raw ruby would you treasure it or have it cut and polished into a piece of jewelry? 

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The Cambridge Sapphire Parure

In 1934 when Princess Marina of Greece and Denmark, granddaughter of George I of Greece and great granddaughter of Tsar Alexander II of Russia married Prince George of Kent, the 4th son of George V and Queen Mary of the United Kingdom, her mother-in-law gave her the beautiful Cambridge Sapphire Parure, a family heirloom that was made for Queen Mary's grandmother, Princess Augusta, Duchess of Cambridge, who left the jewels to her daughter, Grand Duchess Augusta of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, Queen Mary’s aunt. In 1916, the aunt willed her sapphire parsue to her favorite niece, Queen Mary, who presented the set to her new daughter-in-law.

The tiara could also be worn as a necklace.

A parure is a set of jewelry that is meant to be worn together. Princess Marina received a tiara, a necklace, 2 bracelets, 2 brooches, earrings, and a corsage jewel. I’ve combed the internet for photos to show the jewelry, most of the images were taken in black and white or later in life as Princess Marina wore her Cambridge Sapphire Parure for decades to carnations and state dinners.

When Princess Marina died in 1968 she left the Cambridge Sapphire Parure to her daughter-in-law, Katharine, the new Duchess of Kent, who in 1961 had married Prince Edward, Marina’s eldest son.

Unfortunately as time passed, the Kents couldn’t afford to keep the parure in tact. Some of its stones were sold and eventually all of its pieces disappeared from public view, presumed auctioned and bought by private collectors. It’s sad to see these historic pieces broken up and not end up in a museum. 

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Ordinary people could never afford such magnificent pieces of jewelry consisting of a set of so many heirloom quality sapphires. Also, we never attend royal galas, so where could we wear them? A Trip to Walmart, down in the subway, or a TIME magazine pour?

Savvy Shoppers on a budget settle for commercial grade smaller stones but honestly can easily enjoy them just as much. Inspired by the Cambridge Sapphire Parsure, I picked a few lovely pieces sold by Macy’s, Belk, Saks and other department stores to illustrate how much we can love lesser pieces of jewelry! Each department store offers a wider selection to match every taste, and they run frequent sales making a jewelry splurge more affordable to an average Debra, um Jane!😛

Tips: If you do splurge on jewelry never pick pieces so fancy they stay in a box most of the year. Don’t be afraid of lab-grown stones either. Lab-grown gemstones are physically, chemically, and optically the same as natural gemstones, but cheaper. People will pay more for natural gemstones, yet jewelry is never an investment. You will rarely make a profit by selling your jewelry. Find classic pieces within your budget that you can pair with a little black dress, as well as, blue jeans. When jewelry stays in a box, it's a complete waste of money -- a splurge gone wrong!👑

Be sure to visit Tiffany, as well as, the gemstone wings of the Natural History Museum in New York and the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C. to see the heirloom gemstones when you're in the towns, and Macy’s Herald Square for the commercial grade sparklers. Also, inexperienced buyers are more apt to get taken than to score a good deal in NYC's diamond district. The vibe is to sell and it's not much fun to browse there.

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High Jewelry Drops From 3 Elite Jewelers

Let’s do another eye candy blog. IMHO high jewelry is beautiful to behold and also the safer category to browse compared to beautiful yet impractical material things at T.J. Maxx -- which ordinary wage earners could afford but shouldn’t buy mindlessly. So lets began our peruse of the more costly finer things in life, shall we?

The above Ocean Flora Necklace features diamonds and un-oiled, un-enhanced Zambian emeralds, celebrated for their bright green color. Five perfectly matched emeralds total 10 carats. It is part of Tiffany & Co’s Blue Book 2025 collection called Sea of Wonder. Created by Nathalie Verdeille, the design is a tribute to the ocean's lush seascape and inspired by the gentle sway of underwater botanicals. 

 🔷.𖥔 ݁ ˖ ✦ ‧₊˚ 💠 .𖥔 ݁ ˖ ✦ ‧₊˚🔷 .𖥔 ݁ ˖ ✦ ‧₊˚💠

Round and pear cut, light and dark sapphires finished with 174 sparkling diamonds

From Harry Winston's Majestic Escapes Collection inspired by wondrous travel locations, the diamond and Sri Lankan royal blue sapphire pieces are named the St. Moritz Necklace and Earrings. The collection, designed by Harry Winston’s artisans, captures the fluidity of the magical snow caped Swiss Alps and brilliant blue sky. If you keep in mind the sapphires are stand-ins representing the mountains, the diamonds are like glittering snowflakes showering the blue gemstones.

  🔷.𖥔 ݁ ˖ ✦ ‧₊˚ 💠 .𖥔 ݁ ˖ ✦ ‧₊˚🔷 .𖥔 ݁ ˖ ✦ ‧₊˚💠

Oscar Heyman crafted this platinum multi-colored and multi-shaped Gemstone and Damond Necklace and Bracelet.

The necklace features a vibrant mix of hues from amethyst, aquamarine, beryl, chrysoberyl, citrine, demantoid, green sapphire, mandarin garnet, periot, pink sapphire, blue sapphire, tourmaline, ruby, tsavorite and yellow sapphire. A complementary bracelet (one of several styles) has 12 carats of (390 round) diamonds and colored sapphires. You might as well select a royal blue sapphire ring to have a suite! 

With its reputation of master craftsmanship, Oscar Heyman was commissioned by other elite jewelers, namely Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co. and Harry Winston to design several of their most iconic pieces of jewelry.

Which high jewelry set would you most like to borrow to wear to a gala?

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Pearls Courtesy of the Qatar Museums

Made in 1800, I couldn’t find any history on it. Who made it? Who owned it? Can anyone solve the mystery?

In 2018 The Museums of Qatar put together an exhibition called “Pearls: Treasures From the Seas and the Rivers.” that opened at the State Historical Museum in Moscow as a cultural exchange. It featured a collection of over 100 pieces of pearl jewelry and artifacts from the Arabian Gulf, Europe and Asia. The traveling exhibit showcased the history and cultural significance of pearls with emphasis on their role in Qatar’s history, which was once a major center for pearl diving and trade. The show highlighted pearl fishing techniques and the artistry of pearl jewelry from different cultures and eras. Online media called it "one of the finest collections of pearl jewelry ever assembled.”

I'll show you a few pieces that caught my eye. 

Above 👆is a diamond brooch centered by a cushion shaped rare pink diamond with a gorgeous drop pearl. Breathtakingly beautiful, it is mounted in gold. ©1800

A tiara designed by Koechert was made in 1913 of gold, silver, diamonds and pearls for Archduchess Marie Valerie, the youngest child of Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Elizabeth (Sisi) of Austria.

The Rosebery tiara was designed in London by Garrard in 1878 for Hannah Rothchild upon her marriage to the Earl of Rosebery, making her Countess Rosebery. It has large diamonds and natural Pacific Ocean Pearls. 

Tiffany designed the above chrysanthemum brooch, one of several, with freshwater pearls from Mississippi in 1880.

 

The wide V-shaped broach is believed to have once belonged to Empress Maria Theresa who ruled Austria from 1740-1780. Set in gold, its 40+ natural round and pear shaped pearls come from the Persian Gulf.

The Millennium Necklace and Earrings Set was designed by Cartier in Paris in 2000. It is made of natural Pacific Ocean pearls and sizable emeralds. The center emerald was carved in 17th century India.

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Close up view of the Pearl Carpet of Baroda

Although the famed Pearl Carpet of Baroda wasn’t in the 2018 exhibit (no mention that it was), it is a centerpiece in the National Museum of Qatar's permanent collection. The opulent carpet was commissioned by Khande Rao Gaekward, the Maharaja (governor) of Baroda, in 1865. It has over 1.5 million Basra pearls, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. The gemstones are embroidered onto a deerskin and silk backing. The Maharaja had it made to cover the tomb of the Prophet in Medina, but then couldn’t part with it, so it stayed in his family until 2009 when it sold at auction.

Pearls are timeless and elegant! What a magnificent show for the lucky folks who saw it! The 1st brooch might be my favorite piece, if forced, forced, forced to choose, even though we don’t really wear brooches anymore. The brooch's pink diamond and pink drop pearl are flawless and gorgeous! Which one is your favorite?𓆉🐌🐚🦀

If you wish to learn more about pearls click the 1st link, below.⚪

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5 of the Most Gorgeous Sapphires In the World

Photo: loupiosity: The Bell of Asia Sapphire

Top sapphires (rubies and emeralds) cost more than diamonds. The reason: Colored gemstones are rarer in nature than diamonds. A combination of characteristics set their value including their beauty, rarity and durability. Carat weight, cut, clarity and country of origin can also drive their prices up. Vibrant blue sapphires are the most sought after in jewelry. Heat treated sapphires are accepted as long as the seller discloses it, and the price should also reflect the treatment. Without heat treatment, there would be few gemstone quality sapphires on the market to buy. Beautiful, natural, unheated sapphires are more expensive than heated, or lab grown sapphires due to their rarity and demand. Go here to learn more about sapphires.

Today let’s look at 5 of the most gorgeous sapphires in the world. It’s such fun seeing top of the line! All except for one (which is a smaller wearable size) sold for multi-millions of dollars. Don’t we, ordinary people, wish we could afford the grade of sapphires just like them?

1) In 2021, an 11.9 carat Kashmir Sapphire sold at auction at Fellows in Birmingham, England for £175,980 (or $238,184) after a bidding war. It is a rich, natural, velvety blue untreated sapphire of spectacular clarity. While large indeed, the next 4 sapphires are huge gemstone-quality-sapphires raising their value to more zeros!

2) The Belle of Asia Sapphire is a cushion cut 392.52 carat sapphire pendent, surrounded by diamonds as a necklace. It was discovered in Sir Lanka in 1926. Lord Nuffield, the founder of Morris Motors, bought it in 1937. Sapphires of its size, color, and clarity are extremely rare. The Bell of Asia Sapphire disappeared into private hands for the next 40+ years, then surfaced in 2014 to be sold at Christie’s for $ 17.7 million to an anonymous buyer who most likely lives in the Middle East.

3. The 35.09 carat antique cushion-shaped  Regent Kashmir Sapphire ring is the world’s most expensive sapphire per carat. It broke the record for price in 2025 at Christie’s in Hong Kong. The cost was $12.1 million. As you may have guessed, it’s a natural, unheated, rare, vivid blue sapphire from the storied Kashmir mines. It is set in platinum flanked by round diamonds.

4) The Richelieu Sapphire Earrings, a pair of cushion-cut natural Kasmir earrings weigh 26.66 and 20.88 carats respectively. Owned by Odile de Richelieu (1879 - 1974), they were sold in Geneva at Sothebys for $8.4 million in 2013. The earrings are suspended by a star of cushion and pear shaped diamonds. According to the Swiss Gemological Institute, the pair of sapphires match perfectly in size and shape. The hue is velvety blue and the clarity excellent "with only microscopic inclusions. A matching pair of natural sapphires from Kashmir of this size and quality is very rare and exceptional.”

5) The Logan Sapphire is the most accessible to us common folk, as it resides in the Smithsonian Institution. It was donated by Rebecca Pollard Guggenheim Logan in 1960. The Sri Lanka gemstone, at 422.98 carats, which is the size of a large chicken egg, is one of the largest velvety blue sapphires in the world. The mixed cushion cut sapphire is set in gold and silver as a brooch and surrounded by 20 round brilliant cut diamonds. Multiple sources list its value as $2.5 million.

With colored gemstones (sapphires, rubies and emeralds), color is the most important of the 4 “Cs” (color, cut, carat and clarity) in determining their value. Seeing Kashmir and Sir Lanka sapphires always makes a jewelry lover want one, doesn’t it? Commercial grade sapphires are never as velvety blue. Today the Kashmir and Sir Lanka mines are closed, making these sapphires all the more rare and valuable!💰💸🤑

Which of the 5 is your favorite?

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Marie Thèrese of France’s Emerald Tiara

Photo: Wikipedia Commons: I’d love to set this piece of history on my head! If this stunner could talk.

Today I’m featuring a beautiful tiara created for a member of the House of Bourbon who had a sad history. Marie Thèrese Charlotte of France (1778 - 1851) was the oldest and only surviving child of King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antionette of France both guillotined when she was 12 years old. After France’s Reign of Terror she was isolated and held prisoner for another 5 years until her release was negotiated. She went to live in exile in Austria, her Habsburg-Lorraine mother’s native country. As France headed towards revolution, Queen Marie Antionette had sent some of her jewelry to Austria for safekeeping, and these pieces were returned to her daughter after she arrived in Vienna.

In 1799 Marie Thèrese was persuaded to enter a political marriage with her cousin, Louis Antoine, the Duke of Angouème so she became the Duchess of Angouème. The Emerald and Diamond Tiara of Marie Thèrese is sometimes called The Duchess of Angouème Emerald Tiara. It was made by jewelers Evrard and Frederic Bapst in 1819 - 1820 using stones from the French Crown Jewels. The tiara features a symmetrical scrolling design with 40 emeralds set in gold and 1,031 diamonds set in silver. Fourteen of the emeralds are large ones!

For a period of time the Bourbon monarchy was restored. Louis XVI’s two younger brothers sat on the throne with Marie Thèrese returning to France, but in 1830 she was forced into exile again. She made the crazy decision to leave her tiara behind. Later it was worn by Empress Eugènie whose husband, Napoleon III, ruled (1852 - 1870) sizing power as Emperor of the French. Eventually they too, were expelled. Empress Eugènie also left the tiara in France for the state.

 

Photo: Instagram

The Emerald and Diamond Tiara of Marie Thèrese along with other French Crown Jewels were then sold at auction in 1887 by France’s Third Republic. An unknown British buyer bought the tiara. It disappeared for awhile before being put on display as a loan in 1982 at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. 

In exile Marie Thèrese moved to Prague with her husband’s family, then to Goriza (part of Italy today) and after her husband's death to a Baroque castle just outside of Vienna where she spent her final years quietly (attending Mass, taking walks, reading and sewing). Empress Eugènie lived for the rest of her life in Great Britain as a guest of Queen Victoria. 

Photo: Almy

In 2002 the Louvre Museum purchased the tiara from its anonymous owner, returning it to France. The Angouème Emerald Tiara is now on display in Paris at the Louvre Museum. Home, Sweet Home!

We’re fortunate when royal jewels end up in a museum for us to see them up close.

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#Shorts: Jeweler Terry Quinn's 5 Ways to Save On Lab Grown Diamonds

As stated again and again on THE SAVVY SHOPPER, lab-grown diamonds are physically, chemically, and optically the same as natural (mined) diamonds. Nowadays the process of growing diamonds in a lab has gotten so good that jewelers and customers alike can't tell them apart. If diamonds are grown in a lab, it must be stated so on the diamond because it is so difficult to tell them apart.

Note that lab-grown diamonds cost far less than natural diamonds and therefore don't have the resale value but you should never buy diamonds as an investment anyway as you'll rarely if ever get what you paid for them. Diamonds are a luxury purchase, things of beauty, not an investment.

Today I'm sharing a YouTube video by a jeweler who has a brick-and-mortar store in Woodbridge, Virginia. Jeweler Terry Quinn expertly explains how to save money when selecting diamonds. Today's tips focus exclusively on buying lab-grown diamonds detailing his 5 tips on saving the most money when buying them. Worth a listen as I can't summarize his professional advice any more succinctly. (Remember jewelers must look at and buy a lot of diamonds to have stock for their customers.)

The first tip I learned from Terry today is to go with IGI ratings when buying lab-grown diamonds and GIA ratings when buying natural-grown diamonds. IGI and GIA are both reputable diamond grading institutions that use advanced technology and skilled gemologists to certify diamonds but until the perception changes GIA is still the most trusted for natural diamonds. GIA grades fewer lab-grown diamonds than IGI. Lab-grown diamonds will be more expensive and the selection of diamonds less if rated by GIA.

A 2nd tip I learned today was the 2 ways of creating lab diamonds CVD (chemical vapor deposition) and HPHT (high pressure high temperature) have caught up with each other. Both methods are effective in creating high-quality, authentic diamonds, identical to those found in nature. Until recently HPHT lab-created diamonds were whiter and they continue to cost more because of perception leading to their greater demand.

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Photo: Harry Winston

The Golden Globes aired last week and soon Oscar's A-listers will walk the red carpet adorned with borrowed jewels worth thousands (and sometimes millions) of dollars from the world's leading designers of high jewelry. 

On the right Graff and on the left Bvlgari

So let's do a quick round-up of 10 of the World's Most Prominent Jewelers (in no particular order) featuring pieces of their jewelry:

1) Cartier - Louis-François Cartier founded Cartier in Paris in 1847, but it was his grandsons, Louis Pierre and Jacques, who turned the family jewelry business into a globally recognized luxury brand.

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2) Boucheron was founded in Paris, France in 1858 by Frederic Boucheron. In 1921 Boucheron was commissioned to make the gorgeous emerald and diamond Greville tiara inherited by Queen Elizabeth II that her granddaughter Princess Eugenie wore for her wedding.

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3) Bvlgari - The Italian luxury jeweler is headquartered in Rome and was founded in 1884 by silversmith Sotirios Voulgaris who began his career in his family's shop in Ottoman Epirus (now Greece). In 2011 Bvlgari became a subsidiary of the French conglomerate LVMH. Its pieces have a timeless yet modern vibe.

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4) Van Cleef & Arpels—The French luxury jewelry company was founded in 1896 in Paris, France, by Dutch diamond cutter Alfred Van Cleef and his father-in-law Salomon Arpels. After Solomon died in 1906, Alfred's brothers-in-law, Charles, Julien, and Louis Arpel joined the enterprise. Flowers, animals, and fairies are common themes in its jewelry.

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5) Tiffany & Co. - Founded in 1837 as Tiffany & Young by American Charles Lewis Tiffany, it was renamed Tiffany & Co. in 1853 when he took control of the store and concentrated on jewelry. Tiffany became famous in the early 20th century under the artistic direction of Charles's son, Louis Comfort Tiffany. The luxury brand specializes in luxury diamonds and flawless colored gemstones and is also famous for its Tiffany diamond engagement ring, a 6-prone setting. The shop is very accessible to the public. Inside the 5th Avenue/57th Street flagship store, locals and tourists always feel welcome admiring its luxury jewelry.

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6) Mikimoto - Kokichi Mikimoto started the cultured pearl industry by successfully creating the world's first cultured pearls and after establishing his luxury pearl company called Mikimoto in 1893. Before cultured pearls (real pearls grown on pearl farms), drivers had to deep dive into the ocean to find pearls growing in oysters; consequently, only royalty could afford to buy them.

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7) Chopard - Louis-Ulysse Chopard founded the watch and jewelry company in 1860 in Sonvilier, Switzerland. Today it is owned by the German Scheufele family. Chopard is best known for making luxury Swiss watches (and jewelry), and its clients have included Tsar Nicholas II of Russia.

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8) Harry Winston - Is an American luxury jeweler and  Swiss watch company headquartered on 5th Avenue in New York City. It was founded by its namesake Harry Winston in 1932. It is one of the most prestigious jewelers in the world. Harry Winston has owned some of the biggest and most iconic gemstones on earth including the rare blue Hope Diamond which he donated to the Smithsonian in 1958, famously sending it through the US mail. He is known as the jeweler to the stars since they often wear his jewelry to high-profile events.

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9) Graff - Was founded in London in 1960 by British jeweler Lawrance Graff. The jeweler, who began his jewelry apprenticeship at age 14, is fascinated by diamonds and collects diamonds and gemstones of unparalleled rarity, perfection, and beauty. He designs unique and classic pieces and his business acumen made Lawrance, his ex-wife, and his adult children billionaires.

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10) Pomellato is an Italian jewelry company founded by Pino Rabolini in Milan in 1967. Its jewelry is characterized by round, tactile forms and colorful, mixed-sized gemstones.

Nudo rings

Are you now more familiar with the styles of these 10 top jewelers I've featured today? If so, try to guess whose pieces the stars wear on March 2nd at the 97th Academy Awards. 

Do you have a favorite jewelry designer?

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