India’s Famed Koh-i-Noor Diamond

Photo: Baunat

India's famed Koh-i-Noor (meaning "Mountain of Light") Diamond is one of the most extraordinary diamonds in the world. First mentioned in history in the 14th century, it was owned by the ruling maharajahs of India, but after bloody battles, the diamond became a spoil of war to various Sikh, Mogul, and Persian rulers.

Prince Duleep Singh

It was given as a gift to Queen Victoria during the colonial era when the powerful British East India Tea Company annexed Punjab (then in India, today also in Pakistan) in 1849 forcing its 11-year-old ruler, Prince Sir Duleep Singh, into abdicating and surrendering his lands and prized diamond via the Treaty of Lahore. The legendary diamond was singled out as a symbol of conquest.* The British authorities also separated the boy from his mother, refusing to let him see her for 13 years. They brought him to England where he was educated, given estates, a palace, and the privileges that reflected his rank as a Prince and Maharaja, plus a yearly pension (of $3,145,248 in today's value) as long as he pledged obedience to the Crown and British government, which is the rub of colonialism. Except for 2 controlled visits to India, Maharaja Duleep Singh spent the rest of his life in exile. (His ... is a fascinating life and family. His daughter Princess Sophia Duleep Singh was a prominent Indian British suffragette who was instrumental in helping women win the right to vote in Great Britain. It's admirable how the family balanced retaining their Indian heritage with assimilating into high English society. The Maharaja longed to return to his throne and wrestled with a measure of regret in adulthood; still, he remained respectful and a close friend of Queen Victoria.)

Replica of Kohinoor Diamond before recut

The earliest recorded weight of the Koh-i-Noor Diamond is 186 carats. Cut in the style of Mughal-era diamonds, it resembled the diamonds in the modern Iranian Crown Jewels. This was disappointing to Western eyes, so Prince Albert, husband of Queen Victoria, had it recut by a leading mineralogist, James Tennant, (removing some discovered internal flaws) into a more dazzling brilliant cut stone. The colorless D-grade diamond was cut into a cushion shape with excellent clarity. Unfortunately, it also reduced the size of the diamond from 186 carats (or 191 modern carats) down to 105.6 carats. Diamond experts all agree it enhanced the beauty of the diamond and yet, at the loss of its size and history.

Queen Victoria (and Prince Albert) were quite taken with and became lifelong friends of Maharaja Duleep Singh (and later on with his daughters). The British Queen showed Prince Duleep Singh his lost diamond. Reportedly the 16-year-old Maharaja grew silent with emotion while holding and twirling it for 1/4 hour in his hands ... surely recalling how it belonged to his family and was later seized from him at a tender age.

After Queen Victoria's death, the Koh-i-Noor was added to the Crown Jewels. It was mounted in the crown of Queen Alexandra, the wife of Edward VII to use during her coronation in 1902. Queen Mary (wife of George V) and Queen Elizabeth (wife of George VI) also used the Koh-i-Noor Diamond in their coronation crowns. Due to its enduring controversy, the diamond was removed from the crown for Queen Camilia's coronation in 2023. 

Ever since India gained its independence in 1947, there have been cries to return the Koh-i-Noor Diamond to India. Pakistan, Iran, and Afghanistan also claim ownership resulting from the diamond exchanging hands as a spoil of war by the victors of those countries over the years.

Photo: Baunat - how the Kohinoor compares in size to other well-known gems

I realize how hair-splittingly difficult it is to determine what is the right thing to do after centuries of the Koh-i-Noor Diamond's complex history, however IMHO, India has the strongest argument for ownership. As a Westerner, I'm biased towards wanting the diamond to stay in the Tower of London, but there's no doubt the diamond was acquired as the spoil of war under the strongarm of colonialism coupled with the coercion of a powerless 11-year-old boy ruler to sign it away. In the 21st century, an 11-year-old cannot sign legally binding contracts or treaties.

3rd daughter Sophia Duleep Singh with her mother, Bamba Muller and with her elder sisters, Catherine and Bamba

I also recognize the fear of opening a Pandora's Box by returning the Koh-i-Noor Diamond to India. Granted, not everything in history can be made right because time makes it convoluted and impossible to correct every wrong. I think we must go on a case-by-case basis. Just because righting a wrong is challenging doesn't mean it should not be attempted.

Click here for this photo credit: Duleep is seated, left of the future King Edward VII, at the time of the photo, still Prince of Wales.

Today there are no living Duleep Singh direct descendants, but India understandably still feels the sting of how the Koh-i-Noor Diamond was taken from its country. What a magnanimous diplomatic gesture it would be for the British royal family to return the diamond to India. They would likely not even miss it (having so many other jewels), and it would loudly honor India and the last owner of the diamond, Maharaja Sir Duleep Singh.  

Yikes, now Pakistan will dislike me for thinking that India has the strongest suit ... as it also has a logical claim. In modern times before 1947, there was only India, a colony of the Britain Empire. In 1947 the British colony became two independent states of India and Pakistan. Punjab was divided by religion, with the western portion becoming Pakistan, and the rest of Punjab becoming part of India So it's a judgment call. Perhaps all 3 countries with the royal family could sit down at the table to decide.

So what do you think? Great Britain has it, but who should own the Koh-i-Noor Diamond? A difficult and problematic question for sure!

*The timing of the East India Tea Company was not by chance. Whenever a boy ruler comes to the throne, other powers who want control of a country's land or treasures use the country's weakness as the time to strike. The head of the mighty East Indian Tea Company, Lord Dalhousie, said he targeted the Koh-i-noor Diamond with the aim of giving it to Queen Victoria to be added to the Crown Jewels as a symbol of conquest. An elaborate ceremony occurred for the 11-year-old Maharaja to hand over the jewel as a sign of his submission to the Crown. After recutting it, Queen Victoria wore the Koh-i-Noor Diamond as a brooch. It became part of the Crown Jewels soon after her son Edward VII became King.

Duleep Singh's mother was exiled to Napal and her son was adopted and raised by British diplomat John Spencer Login and his wife whom the boy grew close to, and it was a warm, trusting relationship. They took him on tours of Europe.

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5 Cheap Beauty Thrills And Steals

A splurge doesn't always have to cost an arm and a leg. At times finding a small item that serves a purpose, one that does a job well on the cheap can be as thrilling as acquiring expensive things. Scoring a cheap beauty item gives you a shot of endorphins without the pain of blowing your budget, or having a debt to pay off when charges are posted to your credit card. The following are 5 fabulous cheap beauty thrills and steals -- priced under $7, with certain colors within each product selling for under $5!:

1) NYX Professional Makeup Butter Gloss, Non-Sticky Lip Gloss - Lip color that is buttery soft and silky smooth, cheap, but not sticky. Sold! Great to carry in a handbag to moisten your lips with a pop of color throughout the day.

2) International Women's Travel Kit - a 10-piece oral, skin, and hair grooming kit. Contains: Herbal Essences Shampoo 1.4 oz., Herbal Essences Conditioner 1.4 oz., Styling Comb, Eucerin Lotion 1 oz., Secret A/P Deodorant .5 oz, Crest 3D Toothpaste .85 oz., Toothbrush, Dental Flossers 3 ct., Quart Sized Zip Top Bag in Reusable Zippered Cosmetic Travel Bag. It's worth paying for the convenience and compactness of fitting the toiletries we need into an overnight bag. (I'd have to add a sample packet of face wash and a hair tie inside to hold my hair back for wishing my face.) 

3) Goody Ouchless Women Polyband Elastic Hair Tie - 250 Count - For under $5 you get a ton of invisible hair ties that hold your hair in ponytails of all sizes without hair breakage. 

4) Covergirl Clean Matte Pressed Powder - Nobody needs to be walking around with a shiny face, a forehead, nose, or chin. It's unbecoming! Good, clean, pressed matte powder to the rescue! Perfume-free, it comes with a powder pad and mirror and slides into a handbag.

5) NYX Professional Makeup Mechanical Eyeliner Pencil - These $4.99 eyeliner pencils are a marvel. Highly pigmented, soft, durable, plus available in a slew of flattering colors. Shows us how overpriced many other cosmetic lines are! With NYX, you get the same excellent quality for much less!

During my birthday, sometimes I celebrate all month long with a few big but mostly small splurges. Monetary cost is often irrelevant for articles to make us -- i.e. our lives happier, easier, or better. Blueberries can make you happy if you love blueberries, or $5 buttery, nonsticky lip gloss!

Do you need to treat yourself with a small yet worthy splurge today? One of these 5 cheap beauty thrills and steals should do the trick!

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The Cullinan Diamond In The Crown Jewels

These 3 photos have a watermark, but the copyright is likely The Royal Collection. Who else has access to remove and hold the gems up? I volunteer next time.😁 

The Cullinan Diamond is the biggest gem-quality rough diamond ever found. Some geologists think the largest clear diamonds such as the Cullinan Diamond (and Hope Diamond) were formed 100s of miles deeper within the earth's mantle than 99% of other gem diamonds, which are also smaller. At one time, the land might also have been ocean floor. Uncut the Cullinan Diamond named after Thomas Cullinan, the owner of the Premier mine in South Africa, weighs 3,106 carats. Discovered in 1905, click here for a short history and here for the longer history and controversy of the diamond.

Photo of the 9 largest cut stones : The Royal Collection

Photo of the 9 largest stones faceted into jewels - The Royal Collection

On THE SAVVY SHOPPER, I hope we can Ooh and Ahh over the majestic diamond plus appreciate how diamonds are nothing more than pure carbon rocks that billions of years and human hands turn into spectacular sparklers, i.e., the jewels they become. 

An expert diamond cutter studies a rough diamond's structure to determine how it should best be cut, usually aiming to keep as much of the gemstone as possible. After cutting, another expert polishes the diamond. 

The 3,106 carat Cullinan Diamond (↖that's it on the left) was cut into 105 stones by Joseph Asscher & Company in Amsterdam with the 9 biggest stones eventually ending up in the possession of the British Royal Family. Reportedly some were gifts and others bought.

Let's take a closer look at the 9 largest Cullinan Diamond stones now with the British monarchy, along with a helpful cheatsheet. I needed to refer back to it, focusing on the shapes, to get the remainder of the blog right!:👀 

The two biggest of the cut diamonds, Cullinan I and Cullinan II are sometimes called The Great Star of Africa and the Second Star of Africa, respectively ... as if keeping the cut diamonds straight isn't challenging enough!

Here's where those 9 large cut diamonds ended up ...

The Cullinan I, a pendeloque cut (which is an ornament-like round brilliant-cut pear) weighs 530.2 carats. It was placed on top of The Sovereign's Scepter in 1910 by Garrard & Company on the instruction of George V. On the right is how it looks standing alone. The Cullinan I is the largest colorless diamond in the world!

The Cullinan II is the 317.40 cushion cut center diamond in the Imperial State Crown, its placement also decided by George V. The Cullinan II is the 2nd largest colorless diamond in the world. 

The Cullinan III is a pear shaped 94.4 carat diamond. Along with the Cullinan  IV, a square cut 63.6 carat diamond it became a brooch often worn by Queen Elizabeth II.

The Cullinan V is considered a one-of-a-kind heart-shaped diamond, weighing 18.8 carats. It's set surrounded by even more diamonds and platinum into another brooch. Bling, bling, bling!🙂

The Cullinan VI is set into a 3rd brooch and to the right as it appears loose. It is an 11.5 carat marquise cut diamond. The Cullinan VIII, an emerald cut 6.8 carat diamond, is mounted on the top of the 3rd brooch.

The Cullinan VII, a smaller marquise cut 8.8 carat diamond, is dangling from the gorgeous emerald and diamond Delhi Durbar Necklace. Like many of the standout gemstones owned by the British royals, the Cullinan VII diamond is detectable.

The Cullinan IX is a pear shape diamond weighing 4.39 carats that is made into a ring.

So the cut Cullinan Diamond is numbered from biggest I to smallest IX stones in descending carat weight! The Cullinan Diamond stones I and II, which are part of the Crown Jewels, are on view at the Tower of London. Stones III - IX are not part of the Crown Jewels but are pieces in Charles III's personal jewelry. 

Photo: Science Photo Libary - a replica of the Cullinan Diamond uncut

Estimates for the value of the Cullinan suite of diamonds can be found, but none of the jewels are insured, and given their history, they are irreplaceable and priceless. When I was in London on a group tour in college, it was decided (not by me😁) that the lines were too long to see them.💂

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Tapestry Owner of Coach Is Buying Versace

Although I examine and admire many luxury bags I don't own any such as Hermes, Chanel, or Louis Vuitton. I'm a lover and owner of 5 Coach bags.

 

As it turns out Tapestry, Coach's parent company, is buying Capri Holdings, the parent company of Versace and Jimmy Choo, brands that position themselves as luxury goods. On the other hand, Coach since 1941 has always marketed itself as a fine leather goods company, not a luxury brand despite the stellar craftsmanship of its fine leather goods, and I hope with the acquisition of its new luxury targeting holdings Coach never lowers its own standards or raises its prices. Time will tell. Some well-known luxury brands in spite of hefty price tags aren't made as well as Coach!

Among its inventory, Coach offers several totes of different sizes and leathers. The Rae Tote is my newest favorite. At 11.1"H x 13.1"W x 5.1"D it's the perfect size to carry all our essentials including a 13" laptop, and yet it's compact and more roomy than enormous. I'm also hugely fond of its glovetan leather, named after the leather used to make baseball gloves. It has 2 inside slip pockets to hold smaller items plus a removable leather zip pouch and crossbody straps. The inside lining is suede. The handles are made to fold on the interior or exterior of the tote and when folded cleverly form 2 perfect "C"s for Coach!

Nothing about the Rae Tote gives me pause except its $750 price tag. Priced well below luxury bags, customers get superb quality and craftsmanship for the money. Still yikes! I want this one more than truly need it, and knowing that a change is coming ... oh Coach lead me not into temptation!👺

Let's hope and pray Coach stays Coach, a fine leather goods merchant outside the luxury market, and its bags won't double, triple, quadruple, quintuple, sextuple ... decuple in price!🙏🙏🙏

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Naomi Watts' Stripes Hydrating Serum

Photo: Oprah Daily

The talented and beautiful actress Naomi Watts has developed a skin and hair care line of products called Stripes which for now is exclusively sold at Sephora. Her hydrating serum is getting a lot of media buzz and customers with dry skin give it positive reviews for its effectiveness. But at $80 a pop, I'll spotlight 3 worthy alternatives for less moola. I always say it doesn't matter how good a product is if you go broke using it daily. 

So let's examine what ingredients are in the Stripes serum to
treat dry skin that also has some anti-aging benefits:

💥Ectoine - protects and moisturizes the skin sometimes it's an ingredient in sunscreen.

💥 Mushroom extract - a skin hydrator, it mimics hyaluronic acid, and the antioxidants in mushrooms (selenium and vitamin C) fight free radicals giving it anti-aging properties.

 💥 Hyaluronic acid - reduces the look of fine lines by locking in moisture.

When you are trying to substitute less pricey beauty products for expensive skincare, you may not be able to find the exact ingredient for ingredient matches and yet sometimes you can either come darn close or find products with ingredients that do much the same thing, i.e., give you similar benefits of the ingredients in the expensive product. 

Start by asking what is the main function of the expensive serum? In the case of the Stripe serum, it tells us in its name. The primary purpose isn't anti-aging, it's to hydrate the skin. {In fact, the holy grail of an anti-aging serum is retin-A or its non-prescription derivative retinol. Stripe has a retinol serum that also sells for $80. On THE SAVVY SHOPPER you'll find a ton of effective retinol serums for less with a search.}

Excellent Substitutes For Less include:

1) e.l.f. Superhydrate Gel Moisturizer  - is a moisturizing gel with mushroom extract, squalane, vitamins B3 and E, and cica (an herb rich in fatty acids, vitamins, and amino acids that is used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicines). It's the closest match if you're intent on using a cheaper beauty serum with mushroom extract. 

If you focus on only Stripe's main function to hydrate the skin other worthy substitutes are:

2) The Ordinary Natural Moisturer Factors + HA - Contains Sodium Hyaluronate, Arginine, Sodium PCA, PCA, Lactates, Lactic Acid, and Minerals. The Ordinary has an entire category of different hydrating serums and I'll name this one product but link you to the entire line so you can compare and contrast what's too numerous to list!

3) CeraVe face moisturizers - Developed by dermatologists and sold in drugstores. Frankly, all the CeraVe formulas for face and body are so mild and moisturizing that in winter I use both to hydrate my face without issues. CeraVe makes facial moisturizers for AM or PM, with the AM formula containing the addition of sunscreen, so you won't have to buy or apply sun protection separately. All contain hyaluronic acid and ceramides (lipids naturally found in the skin) and MEV (multivesicular emulsion) technology, a delivery system to make ingredients more hydrating and lasting. The CVS and Walmart store brands are identical. We are beyond fortunate to have skin doctor-created moisturizers in drugstore aisles!

Creating and marketing a skincare line isn't easy. It takes research, finding backers with deep pockets, and a ton of hard work to get it on the market, so I have nothing but respect for Naomi Watts for achieving it. Nonetheless, not everyone can afford $160 for 2 serums: a hydrator and retinol, the barebones of what you need for daytime and nighttime skincare.

With knowledge of anti-aging ingredients that really work and skincare brands, you can save $130 - $145 per purchase simply by selecting the right substitutions. My gosh ... inadvertently this entire week has become a skincare trilogy as I couldn't stop writing about it!😆 Linked below are the other 2 blogs if you wish to read all 3 blogs = the week of a skincare trilogy.🤣🤣🤣

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CeraVe vs Cetaphil Body Washes

Usually during a morning shower, I use SheaMosture soaps to wash from face to toe, and at night I use Noxema Cleansing Cream to wash my face. They both work for me so I've never bothered to buy separate cleansers. I buy all the varieties of SheaMoisture soap and they are all equally as moisturizing. Since I was 14 years old, Noxema has been (and will always be) a staple in my bathroom.

But, recently I received samples of CeraVe Hydrating Body Wash and Cetaphil's Gentle Skin Cleanser and was surprised by how much I like them! 

Photo: HealthJade

Both are super moisturizing and worth buying to treat dry or sensitive skin. If push comes to shove, I think CevaVe is the most moisturizing cleanser followed by Cetaphil although it's like asking who is the better Broadway singer, Kristin Chenoweth or Audra Mcdonald? Either one could be called THE VOICE on Broadway, so it really boils down to personal preference.

Both CeraVe and Cetaphil cleansing washes are formulated by dermatologists. CeraVe Hydrating Body Wash has the benefit of containing ceramides and hyaluronic acid which are moisturizers present in our skin while Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser has humectant propylene glycol (a liquid added to increase water retention) to hydrate the stratum corneum (the outer layer of the skin). Also, both companies make formulas to wash just the face, but I think the majority of people can use the body cleansers for both face and body as they are super gentle and hydrating.

 Additionally, CeraVe and Cetaphil offer cleansers to treat specific skin issues like acne or bumpy skin. {Of course, each also has moisturizing creams, which I compared here.}

So the question is will I go out of my way to add a new cleanser to my skincare routine? NO, as long as what I already buy works. But if we have a harsh winter that dries out my skin, YES. For dry, flaky skin, I'll have my line-of-defense remedies ready for when I head to the drugstore. With drugstore brands like CereVe and Cetaphil, there's no reason to buy expensive alternatives. Two fabulous finds!!

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4 Anti-Aging Face Serums Dermatologists Like

1) Qure is on the top of many dermatologists' lists including YouTube's Doctorly as a spectacular skin serum. The all-in-one serum is packed with clinically proven ingredients, such as Argireline® Peptides, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Ferulic Acid that does everything for the skin -- meaning it treats a bundle of anti-aging issues such as brightening the skin, increasing the production of collagen and softening lines and wrinkles. Cheap, it isn't, but perhaps you can justify paying more because it is an all-in-one formula so you won't have to buy the ingredients as separate serums. Despite its price point, Qure's multi-functional serum is so popular with skincare enthusiasts, it's often out of stock.

Qure is a 1st rate brand to know about but since it's hard to get plus relatively expensive (as opposed to plum crazy expensive) I've found a far more affordable option by Eclat Skincare, a small Australian beauty brand sold on Amazon with the highest quality and clean ingredients that although not identical, are on par with Qure's multi-purpose serum. So listen up ...

2) Ecalat's Retinol, Vitamin C, and Hyaluronic Acid serums each have the same leading clinical, dermatologist-approved ingredients as Qure and also contain those ingredients in science-based recommended amounts. Costing much less than Qure even if you buy all 3 Ecalat serums together. Missing in this brand's serums are the 2 newly praised ingredients in the skincare world, namely Argireline® and Bakuchiol ... and yet Ecalat's serums have retinol; one of the most effective forms of vitamin C; and other peptides that do much the same thing as Argireline® and Bakuchiol to brighten the skin, promote the growth of collagen and treat fine lines and wrinkles. IMHO, it's a budget-friendly compromise without sacrificing clean ingredients or their benefits. Interestingly enough, Argireline® and Matrizyl-3000 are peptides in the company's $12 Youth Cream.

3) The Inky List is a brand I previously featured here on THE SAVVY SHOPPER as an affordable and highly effective skincare line. Recently it was also recommended by the Budget Dermatologist on YouTube. A real and practicing skin doctor, she suggested using 4 products from the beauty manufacturer: (a) 1% Retinol Serum, (b) Retinol Eye Cream, (c) Bakuchiol {here in place of Vitamin C serum because it brightens the skin. Likewise, Bakuchiol has similar and gentler anti-aging benefits as retinol}, and (d) Collagen Peptide Serum.

4) CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum is mentioned by every dermatologist named here, plus Dr. Daniel Sugai and others on YouTube as one of the best drugstore retinols to buy. It contains 0.3% retinol, the same as Paula's Choice which is also good at about the same price minus a drugstore sale. Drugstore brands go on sale, sometimes as 2 for 1!

There are two nearly identical formulas. The left has dipotassium glycyrrhizate, an ingredient from the licorice plant, which is an additional brightener. The right has cholesterol an ingredient in skincare that locks in moisture. Don't sweat the difference.

The more skincare brands on the market the merrier. Choice of products, ingredients, and price is a consumer's best friend to find deals and steals.

Zooey Deschanel is lovely to look at for the purpose of good skincare. :) 

Extra tip - How to use retinol: Start by applying retinol once a week, twice a week on week 2, 3 times a week on week 3, and 4 times a week on week 4. After your skin builds up a tolerance, you can use retinol every night of the week before bed, but never in the morning (unless an all-in-one serum with retinol is formulated for daytime use). The sun destroys retinol. What makes retinol effective is not its strength as much as using it consistently. You won't be able to use retinol that is too strong for your skin 7 nights a week.

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