Bakuckiol The Retinol Alternative

Most of us know how important retinol is to our anti-aging skincare regime. Well, there's a new kid in town.

Bakuchiol (which is a phytoretinol) is an anti-aging ingredient derived from the leaves and seeds of the psoralea corylifolia (babchi) plant. An herb commonly used in Indian Ayurvedic and Chinese medicines, dermatologists describe it as a natural vegan alternative to retinol. It has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties to heal, calm and smooth the skin.

According to a double-blind medical study published in the British Journal of Dermatology, using bakuchiol for 12 weeks was as effective as retinol in reducing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation ... yet was milder with less irritation, so is ideal for sensitive skin and in fact, is suitable for all skin types. In other studies, bakuchiol stimulated the skin to produce collagen, as well as, increased elasticity, and improved firmness.

In comparison, retinol is used at night to avoid sun degradation and skin sensitivity. Yet unlike retinol, bakuchiol's potency is not weakened by sun exposure and it doesn't irritate or dry the skin, so can be used both during the day and at night.

How much bakuchiol is needed in face serum, lotion, cream, or oil to do its job? Choose a bakuchiol serum, etc, with between .5 - 2% concentration for visible benefits. A lightweight bakuchiol serum or lotion layers beautifully with other anti-aging products such as vitamins C and E, azelaic acid, or niacinamide in your skincare routine. Furthermore, since bakuchiol also brightens the skin, some users are replacing their vitamin C serum during the day and retinol at night with just one gentle ingredient. On the other hand, don't combine bakuchiol with glycolic acid as these two kids don't play well together. Glycolic acid degrades bakuchiol's effectiveness.

Moreover, there are a ton of bakuchiol-based beauty products on the market in all forms: face serums, lotions, creams, and oils that are very reasonably priced -- many well under $20 so what's good for our faces is also good for our wallets! Ahhh, welcome to the neighborhood, bakuchiol, you are a Savvy Shopper's dream.

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When To Increase Your Retinol to 2.5%

Retinol (the non-proscription derivative of prescription strength Retin-A) is an anti-aging powerhouse. Dermatologists often call it the gold standard in promoting a more youthful appearance by helping to build collagen, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone. 

But to minimize the discomforting effects sometimes associated with retinol, like dryness, flaking, and raw sensitive skin, you have to start with a lower potency retinol such as .5% --> moving up to 1.0% --> then perhaps increase to 2.5% over time and before attempting prescription strength Retin-A (known as Tretinoin). 

Understand that a higher potency retinol isn't a better or more effective anti-aging serum. The consistency of using retinol trumps potency.

Some people with sensitive skin may never tolerate the prescription strength of Tretinoin; and virgin skin must begin with a lower strength retinol like .5%, often using it only once a week (the 1st month) until your skin can tolerate it 2xs a week (the 2nd month), then applying it 3xs a week (the 3rd month), and eventually, using retinol every night of the week. Only after your skin can tolerate a lower potency should you consider bumping up the strength of your retinol. It takes time for your skin to tolerate higher retinol strengths.

Always remember that the retinol is working to erase those lines and wrinkles at the strength your skin can tolerate it. Consistency, consistency, and consistency is the key to fighting the signs of aging and improving your skin. We expect quick fixes, but with retinol and other effective skincare ingredients, it may take 6 months or longer before you see the benefits.

I have been using drugstore retinol for a couple of years and only now will I try to bump up the potency to 2.5% strength, which I aim to use once a week and return to lower strengths (and bakuchiol) for the rest of the week before using 2.5% retinol more than once a week.

All the brands of 2.5% retinol featured on this blog sell on Amazon and Walmart for $10 - $14. Check the ingredients for extra benefits like hyaluronic acid (for hydration), vitamin C (an anti-antioxidant to protect and brighten the skin), and aloe (to smooth the skin), etc.

I bought the Mo Tulip Retinol (below👇) at Walmart to try. So far the hyaluronic acid in the serum is super hydrating, and green tea has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant protective properties, but I'll have to use it longer to verify the effectiveness of its retinol.

With choices galore, you don't have to spend a fortune for a good retinol that really works, just look for transparency on the label to know exactly what you're getting.

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For folks with sensitive skin who can't tolerate retinol, dermatologists recommend using bakuchiol, a plant-derived retinol alternative. It offers the benefits of retinol without the side effects of retinol. Although bakuchiol takes a different path, it has been shown in a double-blind study to have the same collagen-stimulating genes as retinol. 

Three Ships is double the price of the above retinol, but the small batch brand comes highly recommended by dermatologists. Along with its high 2% bakuchiol, Skin Hero serum also contains rosehip oil to brighten the skin; and the Dream Night cream has squalene plus seed butters as moisturizers. 

A small batch brand with excellent anti-aging ingredients. I can verify 1% bakuchiol, but I can't verify the percentage of retinol as 1% or 2.5%. My mother and I love IMGN bakuchiol and will add other IMGN items for her senior and still lovely skin.

Every skin type can use bakuchiol. Retinol has more studies behind it, which is why people whose skin tolerates it might use it instead of bakuchiol although bakuchiol looks very promising.

For other quality budget finds featured on THE SAVVY SHOPPER, see the links below this post. I try to find the best retinol serums in the $10 - $20 range because, over time, the expense of daily use adds up! The 2-ounce sizes backed by science for less are fabulous, and I've featured some of them. Many brands of budget-friendly retinol are on the market so you never have to go broke using retinol consistently.

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Kind Science By Ellen DeGeneres

Kind Science By Ellen DeGeneres is a skincare line we often see advertised on television. Two questions come to mind: (1) Are the products effective, and (2) Are they good value for the money? Here are my thoughts ...

It depends on how much you know about anti-aging skincare. If you know nothing or very little about skincare ingredients the $49 introductory kit is worth buying. The products are effective, based on science, and are paired to be used together so you won't cancel out the benefits of one elixir with another. The price isn't outlandish for the kit of 4 products. Yes, I know 6 products are offered, but I wouldn't buy a kit to get a free brush or skin oil. It's nice for the company to include them, however, consumers should focus on the 4 essential potions to determine the value of the kit. Those are the ones you'll need to keep buying as they do the anti-aging heavy lifting.

Also keep in mind that when buying the kit, you won't get full sized products, but are paying less then you will to rebuy them in bigger sizes.

So what are we getting for our $49? Reduced sizes of:

1) Gentle Cleanser - 1.5 fl oz/44 ml - Enriched with skin-brightening vitamin C from Kakadu plum, soothing chamomile and green tea (green tea is one source of antioxidants).

2) Micro Exfoliant+ - 0.75 fl oz/22 ml - A face mask that contains volcanic sand and bamboo silk to polish and soften the skin. Its alpha-hydroxy acids brighten the skin and remove dead skin cells.

3) Firming Serum - 0.34 fl oz/10 ml - The main ingredients are bakuchiol (a retinol alternative) and peptides (short chains of amino acids) to smooth the skin.

4) Hydration Cream - 0.5 fl oz014 ml - Has snow mushroom to hydrate, omega-rich sea buckthorn (a source of antioxidants; doesn't grow in the sea) and our retinol alternative bakuchiol.

5) Free Gift: FacialCleansing Brush

6) Free Gift: Radiance Oil 05 fl oz/14 ml - It's mainly sunflower, apricot and jojoba oils with bakuchiol as one of its very last ingredients.

So now I'll find you alternative full sized skincare for less which may source cheaper ingredients that still give you the same anti-aging benefits as the more expensive components. Budget friendly skincare that is based on science can be just as effective as their costly cousins with fancy rarer ingredients that do essentially the same things. 

My skincare picks are:

For Gentle Cleanser:

1) Vanicream Sensitive Skin Cleanser; or Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser; or CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser; or Equate Gentle Skin Cleanser.

To Micro Exfoliate:

3) Cetaphil Extra Gentle Daily Scrub; Alaparte Green Tangerine Vitamin C Face Scrub; Trilogy Vitamin C Microdermabrasion with AHAs (aka Alpha-hydroxy acids).

For Firming Cream:

3) IMAGINE Dermatology Beyond Retinol which is bakuchiol. Since the main ingredient in the Kind Science Firming Serum is bakuchiol, you could buy either a bakuchiol serum or cream. I recommend the IMAGINE brand’s full range of products! (See my review here.) Its Anti Wrinkle Renewal Cream is a close match for the Kind Science Firming Cream for a lot less moola! 

For Hydrating Cream:

4) Neutrogena Hydro Boost; Olay Age Defying Renewal Cream is only one formula choice of many in the Olay line of moisturizers. e.l.f. Holy Hydration Face Cream;  Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer; Cetaphil Deep Hydration Healthy Glow Cream. There are so many excellent hydrating/anti-aging creams at the drugstore they are too numerous to list. You can't go wrong with CereVe, L'Oreal, No7, Curology, Get-Dreamy, or ROC either! Choice galore at wayyyy under $20 a jar! The first ingredient of most if not all hydrating creams is hyaluronic acid (HA). It’s a naturally occurring substance in the body, found in the skin, eyes and joints. It’s main job is to bind with water, holding up to 1,000 times its weight in water. As we age, HA production lessens leading to dryer less elastic skin and joint issues. A good moisturizing cream will have HA as one of its 1st ingredients. Moisturize your face to look 5 years younger! Instantly, boom!

For a Cleansing Brush

5) Washcloths are never abrasive and easier to sanitize than cleansing brushes because they can be machine washed and dried after each use! Scrubbing the skin with a brush is totally unnecessary, often even damaging to the skin.

For Radiant Oil:

6) Palmer's Cocoa Butter Formula Rosehip Scented Therapy Oil for Face (Rosehip is a source of vitamin C which is an antioxidant). Good Molecules Niacinamide Face Serum (Niacinamide is vitamin B3. It calms the skin and increases hydration). Sky Organics Jojoba Oil to Balance and Hydrate Face and Body.

Conclusion: Kind Science is effective skincare backed by science. It's pricey if used daily, but if you need more budget-friendly skincare you'll find equally effective skincare sold in drugstores. These brands employ scientists and dermatologists to formulate their skincare and can go toe to toe with designer and celebrity higher priced skincare.

Lastly, Korean Beauty is also great quality and value for the money. Nowadays drugstores, Walmart and Target carry it. (Next week, I’ll highlight an anti-aging Korean Beauty serum to put on your radar ... for its stellar ingredients, quantity and price! Watch for it to be published!)

Great skincare need not break the bank, but can be found at every price point! I’ll leave you some links below to learn more about what ingredients to look for in effective skincare.

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4 Anti-Aging Face Serums Dermatologists Like

1) Qure is on the top of many dermatologists' lists including YouTube's Doctorly as a spectacular skin serum. The all-in-one serum is packed with clinically proven ingredients, such as Argireline® Peptides, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Ferulic Acid that does everything for the skin -- meaning it treats a bundle of anti-aging issues such as brightening the skin, increasing the production of collagen and softening lines and wrinkles. Cheap, it isn't, but perhaps you can justify paying more because it is an all-in-one formula so you won't have to buy the ingredients as separate serums. Despite its price point, Qure's multi-functional serum is so popular with skincare enthusiasts, it's often out of stock.

Qure is a 1st rate brand to know about but since it's hard to get plus relatively expensive (as opposed to plum crazy expensive) I've found a far more affordable option by Eclat Skincare, a small Australian beauty brand sold on Amazon with the highest quality and clean ingredients that although not identical, are on par with Qure's multi-purpose serum. So listen up ...

2) Ecalat's Retinol, Vitamin C, and Hyaluronic Acid serums each have the same leading clinical, dermatologist-approved ingredients as Qure and also contain those ingredients in science-based recommended amounts. Costing much less than Qure even if you buy all 3 Ecalat serums together. Missing in this brand's serums are the 2 newly praised ingredients in the skincare world, namely Argireline® and Bakuchiol ... and yet Ecalat's serums have retinol; one of the most effective forms of vitamin C; and other peptides that do much the same thing as Argireline® and Bakuchiol to brighten the skin, promote the growth of collagen and treat fine lines and wrinkles. IMHO, it's a budget-friendly compromise without sacrificing clean ingredients or their benefits. Interestingly enough, Argireline® and Matrizyl-3000 are peptides in the company's $12 Youth Cream.

3) The Inky List is a brand I previously featured here on THE SAVVY SHOPPER as an affordable and highly effective skincare line. Recently it was also recommended by the Budget Dermatologist on YouTube. A real and practicing skin doctor, she suggested using 4 products from the beauty manufacturer: (a) 1% Retinol Serum, (b) Retinol Eye Cream, (c) Bakuchiol {here in place of Vitamin C serum because it brightens the skin. Likewise, Bakuchiol has similar and gentler anti-aging benefits as retinol}, and (d) Collagen Peptide Serum.

4) CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum is mentioned by every dermatologist named here, plus Dr. Daniel Sugai and others on YouTube as one of the best drugstore retinols to buy. It contains 0.3% retinol, the same as Paula's Choice which is also good at about the same price minus a drugstore sale. Drugstore brands go on sale, sometimes as 2 for 1!

There are two nearly identical formulas. The left has dipotassium glycyrrhizate, an ingredient from the licorice plant, which is an additional brightener. The right has cholesterol an ingredient in skincare that locks in moisture. Don't sweat the difference.

The more skincare brands on the market the merrier. Choice of products, ingredients, and price is a consumer's best friend to find deals and steals.

Zooey Deschanel is lovely to look at for the purpose of good skincare. :) 

Extra tip - How to use retinol: Start by applying retinol once a week, twice a week on week 2, 3 times a week on week 3, and 4 times a week on week 4. After your skin builds up a tolerance, you can use retinol every night of the week before bed, but never in the morning (unless an all-in-one serum with retinol is formulated for daytime use). The sun destroys retinol. What makes retinol effective is not its strength as much as using it consistently. You won't be able to use retinol that is too strong for your skin 7 nights a week.

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The Barebones Anti-Aging Skincare Products You Need

The Barebones Anti-aging Skincare Products You Need

It so happens I have 3 friends who want to take better care of their skin and have asked for my advice on skincare products. I love it!😍 

Photo: Depositphotos

In suggesting stellar products to my 3 friends I know 4 important details:

a) What they want their skincare to do: Target lines, wrinkles and dark spots as much as possible with anti-aging ingredients; 

b) A simple and easy routine:

c) Products that work without being too strong for their virgin skin;

d) Potions that are affordable and highly effective (i.e., backed by science without sticker shock).

We are also in the midst of inflation with people wisely economizing and trying to get the most bang for a buck. So without further ado, here are my rock-bottom with the least amount of steps recommendations, a/k/a --

A Skincare Routine With the Least Amount of Products For Less Money:

1) Wash your face with Noxema Cleansing Cream - It contains eucalyptus and camphor, anti-inflammatories used in Ayurvedic medicine. Cost: $4.47.

2) Treat your face by starting with The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane and work your way up to The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid in Squalane 5% - Retinol/Retinoid converts to retinoic acid the Holy Grail of anti-aging ingredients. Cost: $7.50 - $14.95.

3) Moisturize your face with The Inkey List Bakuchiol - It has 1% bakuchiol, the new anti-aging wonder is backed up by a 2-blind scientific study showing it works, as well as, retinol. 1% is double the concentration tested in the study. Also, bakuchiol plays nice with other skin care products, so you can layer it without canceling the benefits of any other anti-aging ingredients you may be using. Cost: $11.49. {Learn more about the InkeyList here.}

4) Protect your face with the daily use of sunscreen such as Olay Sensitive Skin SPF 15 - SPF 50 - SPF 15 is a lightweight formula and provides sufficient protection as long as you reapply it every few hours. Higher SPF numbers don't give you much more protection, yet you don't need to reapply them as often. Doctors often recommend SPF 30 or SPF 50 because patients forget to reapply their sun protection. Walmart has an I can't tell the difference knockoff brand, Equate Beauty All-Day Broad Moisturizing Lotion, SPF 15. Cost $3.50 {complared to Olay's $10}.

The grand total of my suggested barebones, anti-aging-beauty-elixirs is $26.96.💋

How do 4 products and 4 steps that have you covered in anti-aging ingredients for under $30 sound? The whole shebang ... ultra budget-friendly and without compromise!🎯

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Honorable Mention for All Skin Types - the new one-step face serum for both morning and night:

2 ounces of a 1% bakuchiol serum from Imagine Dermatology for $16.12 is a steal! The formula also includes green, white and chamomile teas; hyaluronic acid, niacinamide (vitamin B3); glycolic acid; and, rosemary. You could use it in the morning (replacing Vitamin C serum if you use it) to brighten your skin and again at night (replacing retinol) to erase lines and wrinkles, plus this serum improves elasticity by increasing the production of collagen. Bakuchiol serums are gentle for sensitive skin that won't tolerate retinol.

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The Ordinary Skincare Is Extraordinary

The Ordinary GF 15% Solution: An Anti-ager

The Ordinary was the first company to change the game of anti-aging skincare by making it affordable for most everyone. Once upon a time it cost a mint to buy products containing anti-aging ingredients that were based on science! 

Nowadays when buying effective skincare, you are the one who cho0ses to go broke, or not. Education is a must to know which ingredients based upon science to look for in targeting your skin issues.

The Ordinary keeps evolving because skincare keeps evolving as science evolves. I try to keep up with the science of skincare and enjoy trying new products. 

Here’s a new one from The Ordinary I’m curious to try. It's called GF 15% Solution, an age support serum to help minimize and repair the visible signs of aging, including skin damage. The key ingredients are IGF, EGF, and TGE, which are growth hormones and peptites to regenerate the skin, firming it up and restoring elasticity. GF 15% Solution softens fine lines and wrinkles on the forehead, around the eyes and mouth, and smooths rough skin along with brighting dull skin. Sounds desirable to me!

You apply a few drops after washing your face in the morning and at bedtime. GF 15% Solution doesn’t play nice when used with direct acids, direct vitamin C, or salicylic acid. On the other hand, it pairs well with hyaluronic acid, retinol, and heavier moisturizers. If you use retinol (at night) or bakuchiol (day or night), apply the GF 15% Solution 1st, then retinol or bakuchiol and followed by sunscreen or moisturizers.

I’m writing about GF 15% Solution without testing it first because the Ordinary has proven to be extraordinary skincare. Trying this new product will let me know if its right for my complexion.

At such an affordable price ($15.50, alas like everything else The Ordinary has increased its prices), I’m gung-ho to see if it makes my skin more radiate. I want glowing skin! How about you?

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Tula Anti-aging Skincare

Photo: Adweek

As regular readers know, I've switched to drugstore retinoids for my skincare routine because certain brands (Olay, Neutrogena, L'Oreal, Roc) are budget-friendly with scientifically proven anti-aging ingredients that really work. But it doesn't mean I don't continue to learn about skincare and put other impressive brands on my radar. Tula is such a brand to know about. Although it costs far more than the drugstore brands, the retailer has regular Friends-and-Family discounts, making it more affordable. And, Tula has a store on Amazon with savings.

Tula focuses on a gut-to-skin connection by putting prebiotics and probiotics in its skincare. While this may seem like shrewd marketing, there is real science behind it. We have billions of bacteria living on our skin, as well as, in our gut. {A lurking microbiome of living microorganisms ... you are never truly alone!😱😂} Without a doubt, preprobiotics, probiotics, and postbiotics are essential for overall good health, creating a good microbiome and resulting in skin balance, not to mention, glowing skin. There's plenty yet to be learned, but the company's approach of putting biotics into its skincare works to balance the skin microbiome -- this is backed by science, as it helps fight inflammation (a cause of aging), treats wounds, and strengthens immunity.

Tula is formulated by Dr. Roshini Raj, its founder, a practicing gastroenterologist who is at the forefront of the gut-to-skin microbiome connection. Dr. Raj developed an innovative way to put probiotic extracts called S6Pro Complex into skin elixirs to effectively balance your skin microbiome with the results of strengthening, hydrating, and healing the skin. She has 20 years of experience, including research with successful clinical trials and product testing, behind her.

Next, I'll list Tula's probiotic complex products in the order I'd splurge on them ... still only after waiting for a good sale to roll around:

1) Retinol Alternative Serum - To ease wrinkles with 3 botanical retinol alternatives of bakuchiol, alfalfa sprouts, and stevia with squalane.

2) Pro-Ferm Overnight Complex - To recharge and replenish the eyes -  It contains bakuchiol (a gentle retinol alternative), s6Pro complex (as do all Tula's products), peptides, chamomile, squalene, and shea butter. As it happens, I don't use a separate eye cream, but if retinol is too harsh, this should provide the same benefits.

3) Overnight Repair Treatment - A high-potency face cream to treat wrinkles using alpha hydroxy acids and vitamin C.

Watch for more beauty brands to offer biotics-based skincare -- it's coming and will ultimately bring prices down.

When splurging on skincare I tend to buy only one item, not everything all at once. The serum is the most-worth-the-splurge item for me (as it treats both under the eyes and face). With a 2nd splurge, I might try something I don't already have (anti-aging eye cream). Finally (later on) I might complete the set with the night cream. If I ever see Tula at T.J. Maxx, I'll be sure to snatch it up for less! It's why putting the name on your radar is a smart move.

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