When To Increase Your Retinol to 2.5%

Retinol (the non-proscription derivative of prescription strength Retin-A) is an anti-aging powerhouse. Dermatologists often call it the gold standard in promoting a more youthful appearance by helping to build collagen, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone. 

But to minimize the discomforting effects sometimes associated with retinol, like dryness, flaking, and raw sensitive skin, you have to start with a lower potency retinol such as .5% --> moving up to 1.0% --> then perhaps increase to 2.5% over time and before attempting prescription strength Retin-A (known as Tretinoin). 

Understand that a higher potency retinol isn't a better or more effective anti-aging serum. The consistency of using retinol trumps potency.

Some people with sensitive skin may never tolerate the prescription strength of Tretinoin; and virgin skin must begin with a lower strength retinol like .5%, often using it only once a week (the 1st month) until your skin can tolerate it 2xs a week (the 2nd month), then applying it 3xs a week (the 3rd month), and eventually, using retinol every night of the week. Only after your skin can tolerate a lower potency should you consider bumping up the strength of your retinol. It takes time for your skin to tolerate higher retinol strengths.

Always remember that the retinol is working to erase those lines and wrinkles at the strength your skin can tolerate it. Consistency, consistency, and consistency is the key to fighting the signs of aging and improving your skin. We expect quick fixes, but with retinol and other effective skincare ingredients, it may take 6 months or longer before you see the benefits.

I have been using drugstore retinol for a couple of years and only now will I try to bump up the potency to 2.5% strength, which I aim to use once a week and return to lower strengths (and bakuchiol) for the rest of the week before using 2.5% retinol more than once a week.

All the brands of 2.5% retinol featured on this blog sell on Amazon and Walmart for $10 - $14. Check the ingredients for extra benefits like hyaluronic acid (for hydration), vitamin C (an anti-antioxidant to protect and brighten the skin), and aloe (to smooth the skin), etc.

I bought the Mo Tulip Retinol (below👇) at Walmart to try. So far the hyaluronic acid in the serum is super hydrating, and green tea has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant protective properties, but I'll have to use it longer to verify the effectiveness of its retinol.

With choices galore, you don't have to spend a fortune for a good retinol that really works, just look for transparency on the label to know exactly what you're getting.

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For folks with sensitive skin who can't tolerate retinol, dermatologists recommend using bakuchiol, a plant-derived retinol alternative. It offers the benefits of retinol without the side effects of retinol. Although bakuchiol takes a different path, it has been shown in a double-blind study to have the same collagen-stimulating genes as retinol. 

Three Ships is double the price of the above retinol, but the small batch brand comes highly recommended by dermatologists. Along with its high 2% bakuchiol, Skin Hero serum also contains rosehip oil to brighten the skin; and the Dream Night cream has squalene plus seed butters as moisturizers. 

A small batch brand with excellent anti-aging ingredients. I can verify 1% bakuchiol, but I can't verify the percentage of retinol as 1% or 2.5%. My mother and I love IMGN bakuchiol and will add other IMGN items for her senior and still lovely skin.

Every skin type can use bakuchiol. Retinol has more studies behind it, which is why people whose skin tolerates it might use it instead of bakuchiol although bakuchiol looks very promising.

For other quality budget finds featured on THE SAVVY SHOPPER, see the links below this post. I try to find the best retinol serums in the $10 - $20 range because, over time, the expense of daily use adds up! The 2-ounce sizes backed by science for less are fabulous, and I've featured some of them. Many brands of budget-friendly retinol are on the market so you never have to go broke using retinol consistently.

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Skincare Holiday Gifts Everybody Will Love

Ho, ho, ho! Hard to believe the holiday season is here, isn't it? Let's consider the beauty mavens on your shopping list. A good skincare gift can be either an introduction to a stellar new brand or something extra for a friend who already has the knowledge and skincare basics. If your giftees use Retin-A or
its non-prescription derivative retinol (for nighttime), and perhaps vitamin C (in the mornings), they have an excellent anti-aging skincare routine even if they do nothing else. Other products may do good things for the skin, but they are less essential. Dermatologists call Retin-A or retinol the gold standard in anti-aging skincare. THE SAVVY SHOPPER has written a number of blogs explaining and recommending good retinol and you can use the search box to pull them up to read if you wish.

Today I'll feature skincare extras to give as holiday gifts that go beyond the basics. Sometimes it takes a friend's holiday gift to either introduce you to an unfamiliar brand or spoil you with ingredients you're not using -- the skincare extras - that provide additional skin benefits. They include:

1) The Ordinary Hyaluronic acid 2% + Vitamin B5 (see top image👆) - Hyaluronic acid moisturizes dry skin and Vitamin B5 helps the skin attract and maintain moisture. As we age our skin gets drier so keeping skin moist and dewy instantly makes us look younger ... and it feels better too.

2) The Ordinary Niacinamide (B3) 10% + Zinc 1% - Reinforces and balances the skin's protective barrier. Also treats acne by unclogging pores and drying oils and pimple-causing components.

3) The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution - Promotes mild exfoliation to correct dullness, uneven skin tone, or textual irregularities. Also contains skin-loving ingredients, such as Tasmanian pepperberry, aloe vera, and ginseng root to soothe, balance, and hydrate the skin. Amino acids are added to support the skin barrier. I'm surprised at how often YouTube dermatologists recommend glycolic acid + exfoliating the skin, a practice I rarely do. It speeds up skin turnover to promote new skin cells to rise to the surface.

The Ordinary is offering a 23% discount on their entire skincare line through December 23, 2022, on top of their already high quality and low prices.

The last two gift ideas are Korean skin barrier-protecting face creams. The Korean market excels at making beauty serums and creams. The following skin moisturizers will check Old Man Winter:⛄

4) Etude House Soon Jung Hydro Barrier Cream - Is packed with lipids and fatty acids to strengthen and protect your skin barrier, including “Panthensoside”: Panthenol (Protection of skin barrier & maintenance of hydration) + Madecassoside (Soothing effect for irritated skin).

5) Pyunkang Yul Intensive Repair Cream - Contains ceramides, shea butter, macadamia seed oil, and antioxidants to protect the skin barrier and smooth the skin.

Extra find: Bakuchiol (a phytoretinol). A good one is IMGN Beyond Retinol🎄🎄🎄 

This year make your beauty gifts count! Think quality, not quantity! Frequently beauty sets come with items nobody uses like bubble baths. Instead consider giving a skin elixir backed by science that really works, or an introduction to a fabulous beauty brand your friend or family member doesn't know about. A new discovery is exciting ... and how thoughtful of you to share your tips in the form of a gift!

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What Does Argireline Do?

As a consumer, I think I'm fairly knowledgeable about anti-aging skincare. I try to take care of my skin by using products backed by science, keeping it as simple as possible, and I learn new information every week. Only recently did I hear of acetyl hexapeptide 8 also known as Argireline on the market. It is sometimes called Botox in a bottle.

Serums and creams with effective anti-aging ingredients contain either: 1) Retin-A (prescription Tretinoin and its non-prescription derivatives, Retinal and Retinol), 2) Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid); 3) glycolic acid (a hygroscopic crystalline compound that is widespread in nature. Longer name: hydroxyacetic acid.) or 4) peptides (defined as two or more amino acids, a compound, linked in a chain). All 4 ingredients work to do different things for the skin.

C34H60N14O12S

Argireline is a peptide compound with a similar chemical structure to botulinum toxin (or Botox). It is used to reduce fine lines and wrinkles caused by repeated facial expressions. As it turns out, just like Botox acetyl hexapeptide 8 works by stopping the production of neurotransmitters, thereby relaxing the facial muscles and softening the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. If you see acetyl hexapeptide 3 as the listed ingredient, know it's interchangeable with acetyl hexapeptide 8 to confuse us. :)

Argireline also stimulates the skin to produce more collagen, a protein that forms large eosinophilic fibers to rebuild muscles and this also diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Wham!💥and double wham!!💥😄

Research shows a 30% reduction in wrinkle depth when Argireline is used for 30 days, so acetyl hexapeptide 8 is promoted as an excellent, non-invasive alternative to Botox. Argireline also moisturizes dry skin and improves the skin's elasticity. Sometimes dermatologists talk about protecting or restoring your skin barrier (the outermost layer of skin that is bound together by lipids). Inside the skin cells are keratin and natural moisturizers. Moisturizing with oils, ceramides, and/or Argireline helps to keep your skin barrier healthy. Keeping your skin barrier moist and dewy makes you look younger.

Without a doubt, THE SAVVY SHOPPER recommends Argireline over Botox ... not even close! Think twice before injecting anything artificial and expensive into your face that only lasts 3 - 6 months! What a waste of time and money!! Not to mention you want some expression lines to look natural. The robot look is not beautiful!🤖

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Use SPF Face Cream All Year Around

Lumin (black) is sunscreen for men, so I've never tried it.

After my morning shower I apply face cream (or lotion) over a face serum every day of the year. Only in the month of August during those dog days of heat and humidity could I skip the step of hydrating my face if desired, however, I don't do so. The reason why is we need to use sunscreen every day of the year to prevent aging (lines, wrinkles and dark sun spots), plus more importantly, skin cancer. Therefore I use a multi-tasking face moisturizer with SPF 15 or higher. Without. Fail. Every. Day. Of. The. Year. 

As we've moved from summer into fall, you may have noticed your skin is getting dryer. I have, and if a dry face bothers you as it does me, you may need to add a face cream to your daily routine, so why not select one that also contains the sun protection you should be wearing daily? Kill two birds with one stone and done!

Allow me to highlight 6 SPF [Sun Protector Factor] face moisturizers whose light, non-greasy consistency I like, as well as, give you the pros and cons of the choices I don't buy:

1) Olay moisturizers come in broad spectrum SPF 15, 30, and 50. I've tried all the formulas but stick with the Olay Complete with SPF 15 -- the most generous size. The sun protection is zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which I prefer to more questionable chemicals. All of the Olay formulas are creamy and greaseless, but the SPF 50 has a thicker consistency than the SPF 15. The Olay Complete 15 Sensitive formula works for me as it moisturizes while disappearing into my skin. With a lower SPF of 15, you simply need to reapply it every 2 hours if out and about in direct sunlight all day. SPF 30 or SPF 50 doesn't provide significantly more protection, but you can stretch the duration of reapplying them. There is none better than the Olay formulas and they are dirt cheap too!

2) Eucerin Daily Protection Moisturizing Face Lotion SPF 30 - It's much like Olay, as is the Aveeno Positively Radiant Daily Facial Moisturizer with Total Soy Complex and Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen, and all 3 brands are inexpensive and conveniently available at your local drugstore. Olay was the earliest to appear on the market and for this reason, is usually the easiest brand to find, but all 3 are comparable, which lets you grab whichever brand goes on sale when you need one.

3) CeraVe 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 Face - Contains the usual suspects of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide along with the extra beneficial skincare ingredients of hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and ceramides. Dermatologists like that CeraVe puts ceramides (a family of waxy lipid molecules) in it's skincare products to fortify our skin barrier.

4) Laroche Posay Anthelios Face 60 - The customer raves are for the European formula of Anthelios which contains Mexoryl, a patented UVA blocker that is highly stable and approved in Europe and Canada, but not approved by the FDA for use in the USA. The European version is light, thin, absorbent, and doesn't degrade after hours of sun exposure. Laroche is a skincare brand dermatologists universally recommend, but it's expensive. To be honest, I like the brand, but don't tend to buy it. IMHO you can find as good for less.

5) Paula's Choice Defense Essential Glow Moisturizer SPF 30 - Paula's Choice is very good skincare, not the most expensive on the list, and yet still pricey if using it every day. Repeated buys add up! With a bit of research, you can often find the same ingredients from less costly competitors. Nonetheless, P.C. is stellar skincare, not crazy expensive, and perhaps sometimes worth a splurge. You decide for yourself.

6. Neutrogena Age Shield Face Oil-Free Sunscreen 70 - Neutrogena has SPF 30, 50, or 70 face moisturizers galore in cream, lotion, or gel forms, and some with extra ingredients to benefit the skin. Personally, unless I need a particular ingredient to treat a skin issue, I buy the cheapest SPF moisturizer offered that I like. Since I use an anti-aging face serum under my moisturizer, it's the moisturizer with sunscreen I'm after. If our serum already has vitamin C or hyaluronic acid in it, we're covered. More isn't always better, so if the extra ingredient drives the price up, why pay more for it in a moisturizer?

Luckily I'm happy with Olay Complete 15 Sensitive as a moisturizer with sun protection since it's about as cheap as you can buy. Spend more when it matters, but you can save on the category of SPF face creams/lotions without compromise. There are a ton of quality selections for less in a drugstore aisle ... often under $10.🎀💙

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IMGN By IMAGINE Dermatology

I didn't expect to be writing about skincare so soon after writing about skincare, but in the wake of discovering a stellar anti-aging brand at an amazing price point, of course, I have to share it with my readers. You!

IMAGINE Dermatology is a small family-run US business with 40 years of experience in skincare, pharmaceuticals, chemistry, and biology. Their aim is to make the best skin care products on the market with clean, results-based ingredients from reputable sources that are affordable. IMGN is luxury beauty containing anti-aging properties that 100% work without breaking the bank, a subject forever up THE SAVVY SHOPPER'S alley! Customers will also appreciate the bigger 2-ounce sizes of IMGN serums. This merchant never skimps on value! Normally you only get 1 oz bottles of serum.

The IMGN brand offers a full array of beauty scrubs, serums, hydrators, and treatments including these:

1) Beyond Retinol Creamy Bakuchiol Serum - A gentle retinol alternative that according to a British 2-blind scientific study produces all the benefits of retinol to soften lines and wrinkles plus brighten the skin without the irritation of retinol. The formula contains 1.0% bakuchiol, which is double the amount used in the British study. Among its anti-aging ingredients are anti-oxidants to fight free radicals and niacinamide (vitamin B3), which helps improve the skin's protective barrier by stimulating the synthesis of ceramides within the skin. Ceramides are needed for a strong skin barrier. The serum has a faint citrus scent.

2) Pure Retinol Creamy Serum - Has stabilized 2.5% retinol with an advanced delivery system, hyaluronic acid, antioxidants and vitamin E. This is an excellent retinol serum in a great big bottle for cheap!

3) Pure Vitamin C Serum - Along with ascorbic acid, it contains ferulic acid and hyaluronic acid which together moisturize and help promote collagen synthesis and skin brightening. The whole line of skincare has no parabens, soy, sulfates, artificial colors, or fragrances. Here again, customers get a generous 2-ounce size cheaper than what many competitors charge for 1-ounce.

4) Smoother Skin Anti-Aging Renewal Complex - A cream that moisturizes, smooths, and firms the skin with an algae yeast complex that treats wrinkles. Everybody needs a face cream sometimes and do we mind if it builds collagen while moisturizing our faces? Nooo!

5) Instant Lifting Wrinkle Fighter - With acmella oleracea, an ancient plant from South America, to instantly ease the appearance of lines and wrinkles similar to botox. Personally, I'm not interested in quick temporary fixes, but hey, perhaps a person has a reunion to attend, an old girlfriend-or-boyfriend to see, or works in a profession where aging is frowned upon. Nooo judgment here as people have different skin care needs!

To economize I always start with a serum (1st) and a moisturizer (2nd), then I might add products as needed. The website has more than the 5 serums and treatments featured above to whiten, hydrate or bathe the skin in powerful anti-aging ingredients ... all worth your time and money. Take a browse to be impressed with the brand!

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Brad Pitt Launches Genderless Skincare

Hey Brad, "you don't impress me much."🎵♩♪ I lie, I'm a fan girl.

Le Domaine is the new 4-piece genderless skincare line launched by actor, Brad Pitt, who won an Academy Award for best supporting actor in Once Upon A Time In Hollywood (2020) after a distinguished acting and producing career in film. With 12 nominations, it's lovely knowing he won for such a stellar role. Moreover, last week Mr. Pitt made a surprise debut as a sculptor of 9 pieces at a Finnish art gallery in Tampere, where he hung out with friends, musician Nick Cave and artist Thomas Houseago. Isn't he the coolest? He also has a longtime interest in architecture; the environment; humanitarian causes; and now this multifaceted human has paired with winemaker, Marc Perrin, to develop a luxury, clean and green skincare line. 

The brand has 4 products derived from grapes, namely: (1) The Cleansing Emulsion, (2) The Serum, (3) The Cream, and (4) The Fluid Cream. Each is packed with mighty antioxidants that are extracted from wine phenolic compounds. Not only do they pamper and moisturize your face, but they also fight free radicals and reportedly, over time, slow down aging. Cheap, the skincare is not, and I predict if successful, 2 future things will happen: (a) Le Domaine will add potent retinol and/or bakuchiol (a gentle retinol alternative) to its formula; and (b) one of the deluxe advent calendars (like Liberty of London, Fenwick, Space NK, etc.) will offer it in one of its drawers. Perhaps it will be The Cream, Mr. Pitt's favorite item.

Photo: Courtesy of Doctorly. Retinoids are not in Le Domaine products, but I say they will be added one day. 

As it turns out once upon a time in Soho, Brad and I stood on the same street corner waiting for a red light to change. He was alone carrying a large canvas wrapped in brown paper, and I was on my way to Cafe Roma with a friend. A hometown friend, so what lucky timing and fun to see him! Needless to say, we did not bother him ... but we really, really wanted to say hi!

Obviously, Brad's new skincare line is pricey and more than we need to spend for good skincare, so I'm not sure who its target market is. Used daily, the expense would run into hundreds if not thousands of dollars per year. But. If I see it displayed in an upscale shop, I'll sample it. Presently it's only sold online, so let me link you up, my awesome readers, for a browse! 👉 Introducing Le Domaine. 

I can see Mr. Brad Pitt following Paul Newman one day in using profits from a business he starts for good causes he supports. He impresses me as a guy of purpose. What do you think? THE SAVVY SHOPPER wishes him continued success in all his endeavors!💋💜

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Tula Anti-aging Skincare

Photo: Adweek

As regular readers know, I've switched to drugstore retinoids for my skincare routine because certain brands (Olay, Neutrogena, L'Oreal, Roc) are budget-friendly with scientifically proven anti-aging ingredients that really work. But it doesn't mean I don't continue to learn about skincare and put other impressive brands on my radar. Tula is such a brand to know about. Although it costs far more than the drugstore brands, the retailer has regular Friends-and-Family discounts, making it more affordable. And, Tula has a store on Amazon with savings.

Tula focuses on a gut-to-skin connection by putting prebiotics and probiotics in its skincare. While this may seem like shrewd marketing, there is real science behind it. We have billions of bacteria living on our skin, as well as, in our gut. {A lurking microbiome of living microorganisms ... you are never truly alone!😱😂} Without a doubt, preprobiotics, probiotics, and postbiotics are essential for overall good health, creating a good microbiome and resulting in skin balance, not to mention, glowing skin. There's plenty yet to be learned, but the company's approach of putting biotics into its skincare works to balance the skin microbiome -- this is backed by science, as it helps fight inflammation (a cause of aging), treats wounds, and strengthens immunity.

Tula is formulated by Dr. Roshini Raj, its founder, a practicing gastroenterologist who is at the forefront of the gut-to-skin microbiome connection. Dr. Raj developed an innovative way to put probiotic extracts called S6Pro Complex into skin elixirs to effectively balance your skin microbiome with the results of strengthening, hydrating, and healing the skin. She has 20 years of experience, including research with successful clinical trials and product testing, behind her.

Next, I'll list Tula's probiotic complex products in the order I'd splurge on them ... still only after waiting for a good sale to roll around:

1) Retinol Alternative Serum - To ease wrinkles with 3 botanical retinol alternatives of bakuchiol, alfalfa sprouts, and stevia with squalane.

2) Pro-Ferm Overnight Complex - To recharge and replenish the eyes -  It contains bakuchiol (a gentle retinol alternative), s6Pro complex (as do all Tula's products), peptides, chamomile, squalene, and shea butter. As it happens, I don't use a separate eye cream, but if retinol is too harsh, this should provide the same benefits.

3) Overnight Repair Treatment - A high-potency face cream to treat wrinkles using alpha hydroxy acids and vitamin C.

Watch for more beauty brands to offer biotics-based skincare -- it's coming and will ultimately bring prices down.

When splurging on skincare I tend to buy only one item, not everything all at once. The serum is the most-worth-the-splurge item for me (as it treats both under the eyes and face). With a 2nd splurge, I might try something I don't already have (anti-aging eye cream). Finally (later on) I might complete the set with the night cream. If I ever see Tula at T.J. Maxx, I'll be sure to snatch it up for less! It's why putting the name on your radar is a smart move.

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The Barebones Anti-aging Skincare Products You Need

It so happens I have 3 friends who want to take better care of their skin and have asked for my advice on skincare products. I love it!😍 

Photo: Depositphotos

In suggesting stellar products to my 3 friends I know 4 important details:

a) What they want their skincare to do: Target lines, wrinkles and dark spots as much as possible with anti-aging ingredients; 

b) A simple and easy routine:

c) Products that work without being too strong for their virgin skin;

d) Potions that are affordable and highly effective (i.e., backed by science without sticker shock).

We are also in the midst of inflation with people wisely economizing and trying to get the most bang for a buck. So without further ado, here are my rock-bottom with the least amount of steps recommendations, a/k/a --

A Skincare Routine With the Least Amount of Products For Less Money:

1) Wash your face with Noxema Cleansing Cream - It contains eucalyptus and camphor, anti-inflammatories used in Ayurvedic medicine. Cost: $4.47.

2) Treat your face by starting with The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane and work your way up to The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid in Squalane 5% - Retinol/Retinoid converts to retinoic acid the Holy Grail of anti-aging ingredients. Cost: $7.50 - $14.95.

3) Moisturize your face with The Inkey List Bakuchiol - It has 1% bakuchiol, the new anti-aging wonder is backed up by a 2-blind scientific study showing it works, as well as, retinol. 1% is double the concentration tested in the study. Also, bakuchiol plays nice with other skin care products, so you can layer it without canceling the benefits of any other anti-aging ingredients you may be using. Cost: $11.49. {Learn more about the InkeyList here.}

4) Protect your face with the daily use of sunscreen such as Olay Sensitive Skin SPF 15 - SPF 50 - SPF 15 is a lightweight formula and provides sufficient protection as long as you reapply it every few hours. Higher SPF numbers don't give you much more protection, yet you don't need to reapply them as often. Doctors often recommend SPF 30 or SPF 50 because patients forget to reapply their sun protection. Walmart has an I can't tell the difference knockoff brand, Equate Beauty All-Day Broad Moisturizing Lotion, SPF 15. Cost $3.50 {complared to Olay's $10}.

The grand total of my suggested barebones, anti-aging-beauty-elixirs is $26.96.💋

How do 4 products and 4 steps that have you covered in anti-aging ingredients for under $30 sound? The whole shebang ... ultra budget-friendly and without compromise!🎯

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Honorable Mention for All Skin Types - the new one-step face serum for both morning and night:

2 ounces of a 1% bakuchiol serum from Imagine Dermatology for $16.12 is a steal! The formula also includes green, white and chamomile teas; hyaluronic acid, niacinamide (vitamin B3); glycolic acid; and, rosemary. You could use it in the morning (replacing Vitamin C serum if you use it) to brighten your skin and again at night (replacing retinol) to erase lines and wrinkles, plus this serum improves elasticity by increasing the production of collagen. Bakuchiol serums are gentle for sensitive skin that won't tolerate retinol.

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