Should You Buy I Color or I3 Clarity Diamonds?

Let's say you'd love to own jewelry with big diamonds but can't afford the bigger sizes without mortgaging your home or selling your children. Diamond prices increase exponentially per carat as you move up in carat weight because big eye-clean diamonds are rare in nature.

So, of the 4 diamond "Cs" (cut, carat, color, and clarity): (1) On which do you compromise to buy the biggest stone for the money, and (2) How far do you compromise? 

The answers are: Be flexible on color and clarity to buy a bigger stone.

Let's consider color first: To get more value in carats, or size for the money, [technically carat refers to weight not the size of a stone] ideally you should buy a G or H color, but you could go all the way down the alphabet to a J color diamond in a white gold setting. White gold makes diamonds look whiter and yet going past a J diamond is when the naked eye will notice a yellow tint. For yellow gold settings, however, you might get away with a K color as yellow gold can hide a yellow tint better than white gold. If you compare an E color with a J, you will see a slight yellow tint, but without a side-by-side comparison of the two grades you really won't notice, and the difference in cost between E and J diamonds is huge, so you could compromise a bit on color to buy a bigger stone that still looks relatively white.

Next, let's discuss clarity: When it comes to flaws, diamonds have 2 types: blemishes (surface flaws) and inclusions (internal flaws). All-natural diamonds have inclusions or defects. Under a microscope, jewelers see "feathers, bruises, indented naturals and chips, etched channels, and cavities" that can't be seen with the naked eye. In fact, clarity is considered the least important characteristic in a diamond, and where you can compromise the most to get a bigger diamond as long as you examine the stone carefully to make sure the inclusions are hidden and not prominent. Experts usually recommend settling on a diamond with VS2 (Very Slight 2) in clarity to get "the most bang for the buck." A diamond with inclusions can still look eye-clean.

Now let's get specific by considering a pair of diamond stud earrings I've had on my Macy's wish list for a few years. I love the 4-carat total weight of the studs -- that's 2 carats on each ear. Lovely, oh yes! The price is what I also find attractive ... sometimes on sale for as low as $5,400. Nice and tempting! -- compared to the usual $28,000+ for 4-carat diamond stud earrings in 14K gold at James Allen. Nonetheless, it's still a load of cash to pay, so therefore I'm stalling. In the pro camp: The I grade is colorless and acceptable for diamond stud earrings. But the I3 clarity keeps me from pulling the trigger. Macy's at Herald Square never has the earrings in the store to pursue, and it's too risky for the still-a lot-of-moola price tag. 

The cons are: I3 diamonds usually have too many inclusions that affect a diamond's brilliance and beauty. According to Teach Jewelry, ''The difference between I3 and I1 and I2 clarity diamonds is the number, type, position, and size of inclusions." No matter the angle, the inclusions, or imperfections will likely diminish the stones' sparkle (the ability of a diamond to collect and reflect light). How disappointing to spend $5,400+ for diamonds "with large, dark, and easily seen inclusions" that limit their brilliance. Dull diamonds are not what one pays for -- I'd miss the glitter, the sparkle, the shine ... as well as the money leaving my bank account.😳

I3 diamonds are called salt and pepper diamonds due to the black spots they often have. These inclusions are too noticeably to be eye-clean.

A few sources cite if inclusions are on the edge of a diamond, your diamond could break off and an I3 diamond is harder to resale, but I dismiss these 2 reasons for avoiding it. Jewelry is always a luxury buy. All jewelry is a poor investment as you'll rarely get the price you paid if reselling it. If you do pay less for less quality, getting some of your money back by reselling it is a fair trade-off. And on Moh's Hardness Scale, diamonds are a 10, the hardest gems you can buy. Stones in earrings are unlikely to break with normal wear. Not to mention, you should remove rings to clean your house.

Frankly, diamonds are common in nature, and it's mostly demand that creates their high value. Readers, you are not alone in coveting big-sized diamonds! I, too, am tempted sometimes all the time. An I diamond is fine, but diamond experts tend to advise against buying I3 diamonds for jewelry. It looks like I'll never own a pair of 4-carat diamond studs.💎

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A Jewelry/Luxury Buying Mindset: Rule #5 Is Don't Buy Pretty

An example of a pretty I don't buy, but what a temptation of emeralds, white and black diamonds in 14k gold.

YouTube Luxury Mavens talk about their collections. Often I find the amounts they spend and especially the quantity they continue to unbox alarming! Where does it stop? At $100,000!? $200,000!? $500,000!?! Even if you earn highroller-level money, when is enough ... enough?

Today I'm using my rules on when to purchase jewelry as a guide for describing a mindset that applies to buying all luxury goods for anyone on a budget. Think of luxuries as big-ticket items we love but don't need. Hard as it is to believe, I love💙, but don't need this gorgeous tanzanite and diamond ring over to the left! It's so pretty!!!😍

We're not millionaires, and luxury goods nearly always cost us more than what we make in a week ... or a month! We have to save up to own a piece here and there, therefore I'm super selective on what and when to part with a chunk of change. Plus I put a cap on the amount I'm willing to drop on a single luxury good. It's a splurge, not an essential or an investment (as you'll never get the full value of what you pay if you have to sell it). So let's begin ...

The Jewelry/Luxury Goods Buying Mindset -- the rules explained:

1) Don't collect - You don't need a collection. Pick a few articles of fine jewelry you really love that can be mixed and matched, plus worn daily, as well as, to galas. A person on a budget can't afford signature rings or necklaces that stay inside a box except for a few days a year. After saving and sacrificing to buy a piece you love, be sure you get your money's worth by being able to wear it often instead of storing it away.

2) Discriminate - Figure out WHAT you really love (white, yellow, or rose gold); your favorite gemstones; and forgo everything else! Don't buy fashion jewelry. Save up for fine jewelry and buy only the gemstones, size, and style you most relish. You won't miss everything-else!

3) Stick with the classics - Usually, you won't get your money's worth in terms of how often you wear cute animal motifs or signature rings, earrings, bracelets, or necklaces. They're for people with more disposable income who can afford impulse buys and surpluses of fine jewelry ...  folks with crazy surplus money.😄 Savvy Shoppers on a budget focus on a capsule of classic jewelry to be worn nearly anytime and anywhere.

4) Never settle on the "c" (cut, carat, color, or clarity), the main detail most important to you - Save yourself the cost of having to size up or rebuy jewelry because you compromised your true love away. Don't buy a tiny gemstone if you really want a big rock. Likewise, don't pull the trigger on the wrong gemstone, say ... a blue topaz, if it's really sapphires that make your heart sing. Save up for your true loves of attraction like a bigger carat weight or your most loved gemstone.

And of course, be realistic: I adore the quality of the diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds sold by Tiffany & Co., but can't afford more than a minuscule size of Tiffany-top-quality gemstones. But! I'd be terribly unhappy with the carat sizes of stones I'd have to bring home after spending a ton of money there. I understand myself well enough to know I don't want to pay top dollar for a teeny-tiny gemstone. Always at Tiffany, my true loves of attraction are their HUGE flawless, solitaire stones -- the 5+ carats of diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and tanzanites, therefore I can look without temptation, despite the beauty and glitter blinding me! This leads us to my 5th rule ...

5) Don't buy pretty - I love all gemstones but only own a few. I don't have opals, tanzanites, alexandrites, yellow diamonds, black diamonds, red or green garnets, and a slew of other pretty jewels in my "collection" because I have a capsule, not a collection. Personally, since I can't afford every spectacular stone, adding a piece over the years to my capsule doesn't include the softer more delicate gemstones, nor the most expensive stones per carat. Alexandrite is one of my birthstones, yet it's too pricey per carat for my consideration. As mentioned, I refuse to spend big money on a tiny stone! So I own my other birth gem, pearls for much less. I did not do without; did not go broke; do not use spectacles to see it; still ended up with beautiful birth month jewelry.

All of the Effy jewelry uploaded today are beautiful pieces I do not own for various reasons cited in the blog. If not selective, I'd be happy with all of the uploaded pieces. Ooh and ahh, Mr. Effy!😍 The tanzanite and diamond ring above, costing $14,250, proves how more often than not, I don't buy pretty.

Amethyst, sapphire, and tsavorite stones.

In summary: A luxury buy is always about loving, not needing a costly material thing. Owning "it" should result in a happy dance every time you touch it. Discriminate. Don't settle. Create a capsule, not a collection. Buy your true love (the gold, carat, gemstone) even if it takes longer to save up for "it"; then don't waste your money by keeping the purchase in a box/closet/safe. 

And finally a bonus rule: If you love "it" too much or not enough to wear after "it" is yours, sell it! By keeping "it" in a drawer, you've wasted the money spent, so try to recoup what you can.

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Yellow vs White vs Rose Gold

Photo: eragems

Nowadays jewelers and customers have access to a wide range of medals. Gold is always an excellent choice when buying earrings, rings, bracelets, and necklaces. 

The metal is classic and less expensive than platinum. As it turns out platinum scratches more and isn't as easy to resize as gold if, in years to come, the size of your ring finger changes. For this reason and others, gold is widely used to make engagement rings.

Photo: BlueNile.com

Pure 24K gold (meaning 100% gold) is soft, malleable, and not durable enough to wear as everyday jewelry. The gold we usually wear as a ring is a gold alloy (meaning it is mixed with a harder metal) to make it stronger so your jewelry won't bend or scratch with daily wear. 

• 

  Photo: Novemgold

  22K is 91.67% gold and 8.33% of a secondary metal. 
  
• 18K gold is 75% gold and 25% of other metals. 
• 14K gold is 58.3% gold and 41.7% of other metals. 
• In the USA 10K gold is sometimes sold, which is 41.7% gold and 58.3% other metals. 

The higher the percentage of gold, the deeper the color, and yet 14K gold is stronger than 22K, so not a bad choice for jewelry. You will pay less and can wear 14K gold with more abandon. Less gold in the alloy doesn't translate into less beautiful; however, you should never be overcharged for the amount of gold you're getting either.

Nowadays gold comes in 3 popular colors: Yellow, white, and rose. There are differences between them, but when considering which hue to get, it's more a matter of personal preference.

Yellow gold is the color of pure 24K gold. When making jewelry, yellow gold is an alloy made by mixing it with yellow metals like zinc and copper. It looks fabulous on most skin tones, which is why yellow gold is so popular for engagement rings.

White gold is an alloy of gold and a white metal such as palladium, manganese, or nickel. Not significantly enough to make you select it over yellow gold -- which also wears well, but if comparing the 2, white gold is stronger, meaning it scratches and dents less than yellow gold. Yellow gold is just a tad softer due to the other metals mixed with it. On the other hand, unlike yellow gold, white gold must be dipped in rhodium to shine and after years of wear and tear, you'll have to have white gold re-dipped in rhodium to maintain its luster. Thankfully the cost of this process is inexpensive.

I became familiar with rose gold only a few years ago, and it has become a favorite. (This watch introduced me to it -- not even real gold ... but looks like it!) Rose gold is a gold and copper alloy that is strong; doesn't scratch; doesn't fade; and also is universally attractive on all skin tones. Rose gold has a warm, romantic glow and is an excellent choice when paired with red stones like rubies.

If deciding between yellow, white, or rose gold, it comes down to which one you love the best and sometimes the particular gems you're pairing it with ... I think you can always tell which one to get with just one look after trying on a piece. You know it when you see it. Trust your eyes and heart, and you won't go wrong.

Photo: Hamilton

Although I'll stick to one color of gold if ever buying a set of jewelry (earrings, a ring, and a necklace), I'm also a gal who'll mix metals and wear whatever I own that is beautiful! I do not care.💗🔷

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Another Of Nature's Pretties: Peridot

Photo: Cartier

Over millions of years, Mother Nature has formed a variety of gorgeous rocks that the artistry of man turns into sparklers. Peridot, available for many types of jewelry, is one of its more affordable and lively green gemstones. Today let's learn more about this semi-precious beauty, which is a silicate mineral [(MgFe)2SiO4], as well as, a magnesium-rich variety of olivine that forms in molten rock on the earth's upper mantle (as do diamonds, and not further down in its crust like amethyst). Peridot's green hue comes from iron, which is also part of its chemistry (see the formula above👆). In fact, the gemstone occurs in only one color: olive green. However, the intensity and tint of the green can vary from yellow-green -- to olive green -- to brownish-green, and the purer the green, the more valuable the stone.

 

Most of the finest colored peridot comes from Myanmar (Burma) and the Himalayas of Pakistan. Other countries where it is found include China, Tanzania, Vietnam, and the USA. Intriguingly, peridot is sometimes found in meteorites that fall to earth, meaning the gemstone also forms in outer space! Some land on the beaches of Hawaii.

If you like wearing bigger gemstones you are in luck because without breaking the bank, you'll find large pieces of pure green peridot with excellent clarity on the market. You will pay a couple of hundred, as opposed to, thousands of dollars for bigger carat sizes of peridot in a ring, earrings, bracelet, or necklace than you would for emeralds, rubies, sapphires, tanzanites, or diamonds.

Readily visual black spots (i.e., not eye clean) are inclusions to look out for in this stone, as they substantially lower its value.

Peridot rates a 6.5 - 7 on Moh's Scale of Hardness, the same as Tanzanite, Citrine, Tourmaline, Tiger's Eye, Zircon, and Onyx. Harder than opal and pearls, peridot is cut into a variety of standard shapes including round, oval, emerald, cushion, pear, triangle, and marquise.

Peridot is the modern birthstone for everyone born in the month of August. 

Everything featured (except for the top necklace) is available in Macy's online jewelry department. Posted are some of my favorite pieces from Macy's budget-friendly and sophisticated designs. Wow, peridot looks equally flattering in white, yellow, or rose gold. Do you agree?

What a beautiful twinkling, green gemstone ... and less common than the usual suspects! It's budget-friendly because the supply is good and not everybody knows to want it!

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Opal, A Favorite Of Queen Victoria

The Virgin Rainbow is the world's most expensive opal.

Frankly I'm an opal come lately. This year while out researching jewelry, finally I see how beautiful opals are. Speaking practically, I can't buy every gemstone so maybe that's why I overlooked this fascinating gem for so long. The semi-precious stone is known to exist on Mars, and is reported to have been a favorite of Great Britain's Queen Victoria (who wore it and gave opal as gifts to her 5 daughters). Did the jewel's striking stream of iridescence catch Her Majesty's eye, then claim her heart? It seems so!

The necklace and ring courtesy of Angara.com

Opal is a ''hydrated amorphous'' form of the compound silicon dioxide (a/k/a silica - SiO₂·nH₂O). The gemstone has a high water content and is therefore classed as a mineraloid, as opposed to, the crystallite gems like diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds or garnets, which are examples of minerals.

Opal forms when a mixture of water and silica travels over the earth and through rocks, including limonite, sandstone, rhyolite, marl and basalt, as well as, across decomposing fossils, depositing itself into the earth's natural cracks, and faults. It's a process that gets repeated again and again over time until opal forms. In fact, it takes 5 - 6 million years for 1 cm of opal to mature!

The white and crystal opal may be my favorites. I'd love to see all 5 colors LIVE on display.

There are 2 broad classes of opal: precious and common, and it's a mind-twister explaining the differences of opal within these two broad classes. Suffice it to say, precious opal has a play of color (iridescence), while common opal does not. Generally the play (or flashes) of color makes precious opal gemstone quality; yet common opal (including milk opal) can sometimes display color and be gemstone quality too. What is so phenomenal about opal is the variety of color and patterns of the different stones in both the precious and common classes -- it's vast and complex when studied by jewelers. Each stone is unique. Iridescent black opal tends to be rare and more expensive. Here's a link to explain in detail the secret of opal's colors.

Photo: Opal Auctions

Australia supplies the world with about 95% of its opal, most notably the black opal. Ethiopia is a fine source of jelly opal (it has a translucent background), although they tend to be hydrophanours, i.e., they are the most porous and therefore absorb liquids (like water, oils, creams, perfumes or sweat) easily, so you must be especially careful with them. What's more, some mining of opal occurs in the USA (in Nevada, Oregon and Idaho), central Mexico, the Czech Republic, Canada, Slovakia, Hungry, Turkey, Indonesia and Brazil to name several areas of the world where it is found. The US tends to have white opal, and Mexico the red, translucent fire opal.

Photo: FWC Jewelers of a Mexican Fire opal, which despite being translucent in appearance like crystallites is a soft stone like all opals.

Opal rates a 5.5 - 6.5 on Moh's Scale of Hardness, making it a soft gemstone that will scratch or break if abused. It's one reason I don't own it, but when you consider that pearls are softer, registering a 4.5 in hardness, and I take care of those, it's a poor reason not to buy it! Often cut as cabochons, with proper care, opals are tough enough to wear as jewelry.

Photo: Courtesy of Your Average Jeweler of uncut white opal. See the sidebar for a link to Andrew's YouTube videos. 

Opal is less expensive than emeralds, rubies, sapphires or diamonds, but likely about as old and certainly unique, eye-catching and gorgeous. The fact that it is found on Mars tells us there is water on the red planet and hints that perhaps there was/is some form of life also. For sure, the delicate gemstone is another marvel of Mother Nature enhanced by the artistry of man so we can wear it!

Photo: Etsy of Ethiopian opal

Extra tips on whether you should buy an opal: On a limited budget, only buy what you love. So if you love opal, yes, as it's less expensive than some other stones. But, jewelry is nothing more than a luxury, so always buy the gemstones you love even if you must wait to save up for them. If you have no fine jewelry, I'd start with pearls (earrings and a necklace) as they're lovely, a great value, classic and versatile. Later you can add your favorite gemstone.😊

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My Window Shopping Spree

Yesterday was a bright, sunny day in Manhattan (a high of 76 degrees F) so in a pink dress with a motif of flowers, I took a walk. It was playtime! I stepped into stores I forever pass on the outside, rarely going inside. 

My first stop was Graff jewelry on Madison Avenue. Only expecting to look in the showcases, I was delighted when a friendly sales associate encouraged me to try something on! Why yes, I'd love too!!😍

The White Diamond collection is spectacular -- flawless, colorless, certainly expertly cut. Big rocks! Red carpet worthy!

The necklace with a teardrop pendent to the right is the most gorgeous piece I've ever had around my neck! Lucky me, they brought it inside -- usually it's what I admire in a window glass box on the outside, the many times I stroll past Graff on my way downtown. The pendent is removable and a customer can purchase the diamond necklace without the teardrop pendent ... but why would she? Make no mistake, it's MY necklace, but surely somebody else will walk into the shop one day to buy it, and what a sad day it will be!

As an unapologetic matchy-matchy gal, I tried on a flawless White Diamond Collection $3 million ring (above left image) also. Obviously, I was born in the wrong class of society! You can't go wrong at Graff for a stunning pair of jewels!

Next stop was Tiffany & Co. where I admire, but did not ask to try on a lovely pair of large teardrop, clean, clean, clean, blue-green emerald earrings -- sooo perfect in color, translucency and free of inclusions, there is no need for diamonds to add sparkle! Moreover, there are brilliant emerald rings in the Tiffany showcases to match the earrings ... but you already know that don't you? Of course you do!

On to SAKS Fifth Avenue, a department store where I've actually bought merchandise occasionally! I'm much more familiar with department store shopping.😁 

But upon my arrival it was missing. Jeepers! Somebody finally bought my double-stone, sapphire and emerald, 18K gold ring that usually lies inside a showcase in SAKS' jewelry department. It was purchased in March, Dan, my favorite sales associate tells me. Rats!!! Who'd sneak in here with deep pockets while I'm at home riding out a pandemic? Who???

So I moved on to Saks' purse department. I'm mad (no, not angry ... mad is the right word!) at Chanel for hiking up their prices several times a year into the stratosphere, and therefore won't even look at Chanel's bag inventory for a while, if ever!😉 

My new loves are 2 Saint Laurent handbags, by far a greater value-for-the-money luxury brand -- with better craftsmanship at much lower price points that ordinary people with jobs can at least save up to buy without mortgaging their homes. My favorites at this time are the Envelope Medium Matelasse Leather Shoulder bag, as well as, the Manhattan Smooth Leather Shoulder bag. If I were to only buy one color, I'd choose black with gold hardware for its versatility. Golly, I could be happy with either style, but for me the Envelope bag (above image) has a slight edge. Its elegance and size make it suitable as both a daytime and evening bag.

Ahh, I enjoy my walk on such a splendent spring day filled with delightful eye candy. I have fun, touching and trying on stuff. Meet some lovely sales associates too! 

While the trip on foot doesn't set me back a dime, I also never bump into my fairly godmother (surely she's lost!!!), so return home empty handed. Nonetheless, it's a priceless and pleasant window shopping spree. An education and wonderful walk home!

Enjoy your weekend.🌷

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If you must own a luxury bag there's no judgment here on THE SAVVY SHOPPER. Living in Manhattan, I look at Hermes, Chanel and Dior all the time in the shops so I understand the appeal of the handbags and totes, but don't own any myself since I don't covet them enough to pay the piper.

I'm happy with my less expensive Coach and Foley+Corinna bags, so I must say so before continuing. When looking and handling the luxury bags, however, I do evaluate them and decide which I like best ... which style and leather I find the most tempting as a "potential" buyer. While perusing, I think about what customers are getting for their money.

Although Hermes is the best made of all the luxury brands, it's so exclusive -- the $10,000+ price tag too high for ordinary people. Chanel is catching up to Hermes without the craftsmanship, therefore I no longer harbor any illusions of ever owning one. Dior has risen in price also, but its handbags are not as steep as Hermes or Chanel. But ... let's consider a 4th competitor.

Compared to Hermes, Chanel and Dior, Saint Laurent is a value buy for a stylish, affluent handbag. Moreover, it truly is a luxury bag. The leather quality, design, craftsmanship and Frenchness are all there. You get a luxury name that's not cheap, yet not as over-the-moon expensive (or let's be honest) gauging like Hermes or Chanel. Moreover, the retailer doesn't make you 1) grovel; 2) coddle an associate to be offered a bag; or 3) have you buy small leather goods 1st before the offer -- therefore you can skip the games and undesirable extra cost. Just walk into the store and buy the bag. Priceless! The Saint Laurent price points on its luxury bags are thousands less for the same quality of its direct competitors. So if a Savvy Shopper wishes to keep $5,000+ (usually much more!) of their money in the bank, it is the luxury bag to buy!!

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Pretty Hearts For Her

 

Sometimes I think Valentine's Day exists to bridge the gap between New Year's Day and Easter Sunday. It's such a long stretch, there needs to be something to celebrate. And what's more, here on the Western hemisphere, it's winter. Everything has died! We need the vibrance of red and the warmth of love to recharge us ... Valentine's Day is the perfect excuse to wear  red, sparkles and hearts. The following are adorable heart necklaces that would make festive Valentine' Day jewelry ... perhaps a gift for a lucky someone:

1) 14K White Gold Ruby Pavè Heart Pendent - (See the above image ↑.) I've been looking at this heart pendent for ages because it's gorgeous and a generous size. You won't need your eye glasses to see its loveliness! It has 6 1/2 carats of rubies and 1/2 carat of diamonds in 14k white gold. I cannot lie, the one disappoint is true of so many pendents nowadays, namely the chain it hangs on so so slight, customers will need to replace it with another more substantial chain. For the money, it shouldn't be so flimsy, but with the high price of gold these day, it nearly always is!

2) Ruby 2 1/4 ct and Dimond Accent Heart Pendent Necklace in Serling Silver - I would fawn over this neckless if I hadn't set my sights on choice #1. The heart is smaller, yet still pretty and also comes in pink sapphires, or blue sapphires. The silver metal in lieu of gold makes it a more budget-friendly alternative.

3) Silver With Rubies (2 1/2 carats) and Diamonds (1/5 carat) Necklace. - A slanted heart orbited by the sparkle of diamonds pendent. Cute and different!

I thought I'd show you a throwback diamond heart necklace. The late stage actress Arlene Francis was a 25 year panelist of the game show, What's My Line. Ms. Francis popularized diamond heart necklaces by wearing hers daily and on the show. It was a gift given to her by her husband, Hollywood actor-producer, Martin Gabel on their one year wedding anniversary in the 1940s. Sadly 40+ years later in 1988, the heart pendent was ripped off her neck by a mugger in Manhattan as she exited a taxi, a heartbreaking loss for her since Martin had died.😢🖤 

Martin Gabel was the son of a Philadelphia jeweler and what a big, gorgeous, diamond heart it was! It's the perfect size for me! 😁 I want one, but alas, who could afford the huge diamond heart pendent in today's dollars!?! Looking, ogling and admiring is free, I always say. So let's stare at it for awhile.😍 First a dreamer, then a realist ... that would be me!

The ruby and diamond heart necklaces I curated above are more affordable ... and go on sale often!♥

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