Gemstone Hardness Verses Toughness

Photo: Effy necklace, bracelet, and earrings from Macy's and the ring from Istdibs

When jewelry lovers select gemstones for everyday wear they usually think of diamonds for their hardness, but hardness is only half of the gemstone durability story.

Gemstone durability is a combination of hardness and toughness. Hardness refers to the surface strength of a stone to resist scratching. Harder stones can scratch softer stones. A diamond can scratch a sapphire, ruby, emerald, topaz, and on down the line of Moh's Hardness Scale. Only another diamond can scratch a diamond.

Sotheby's

But while hard, a diamond isn't tough, it's brittle and will chip, crack, or shatter if abused. It's why you should remove your rings while working with your hands. Although diamonds, a 10 on Moh's Hardness Scale is 4 times harder than sapphires, a 9, sapphires are tougher than diamonds, and it takes a greater force to shatter them.

Toughness refers to the inner strength of a gemstone to resist breakage under force or stress. A diamond is brittle due to its perfect cleavage, which is an atomic structure that runs parallel making the bonds between its planes weaker than gemstones with less parallel, or imperfect cleavage. Certain softer gemstones are tougher than diamonds, meaning less brittle and more difficult to break apart with blows or force.

So what's the toughest gemstone? There are picture clues.😏 It's jade. Geologists have a saying, " Jade (rating  6 - 7 in hardness) can't scratch a diamond, but jade can break a diamond."

WEJ

Jade is the national gemstone of Japan and is popular in many Asian cultures. For over 5,000 years jade has been fashioned into tools, sculptures, and jewelry. Originally jade was thought to be one mineral but in 1863, Frenchman Alexis Damour established that jade was in fact, 2 minerals, either jadeite (Na(Al, Fe3+)Si2O6) or nephrite (Ca₂(MgFe₅Si₈O₂₂(OH)₂). Jadeite is an aluminum-rich pyroxene while nephrite is a magnesium-rich amphibole. To the human eye, however, they are difficult (though not impossible for an expert) to tell apart.

Jadeite (at 6.5 - 7) is slightly harder than nephrite (at 6 - 6.5) and is in greater demand in Asian countries. Not only is Jadeite jade harder, but denser and easier to work with and polish into a shine. Sometimes jewelers dye jade but over time the dye can fade.

Photo: Sotheby's

Burma (now called Myanmar) produces jadeite, the most sought-after type of jade in Asian countries. Jadeite's most valued color is emerald green, but other colors include black, white, red, yellow, blue, purple, pink, grey, brown, and orange. The finest quality jadeite jade is pure green with high transparency and shine called imperial jade. Other prized jade is kingfisher jade — only slightly less intense than imperial jade; apple jade — a vivid yellow-green; and moss-in-snow jade — "translucent white with bright green veining, patches, or spots," according to The Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

Stronger than pearls and diamonds, jade is toughhh... pretty... and much of it affordable. Especially wearable on Christmas, St. Patrick's Day, and in the spring! Alas, I don't own jade. How about you?

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Peace, Love & Joy!

The Adoration of the Shepherds, c.1650, Museo del Prado, Madrid, Spain - Images 1 and 2 by Bartolome Esteban Murillo

Some people get upset if the historical accuracy of Jesus' birth is questioned, but when the Gospels were written, the people they were written for had a different sensibility and way of reading texts than we do today. Gospel writers crafted their stories to make points about who they thought Jesus was [to paraphrase Matt Baker, Ph.D. in theology]. Modern scholars tell us that fact-for-fact-accuracy or historical record was secondary, which was accepted by the audience, who didn't expect factual reliability. This can rattle some contemporary believers who do.

Bartolome Esteban Murillo (1618 - 1682) was a Baroque Spanish painter. Orphaned at 11 years old, the artist became a ward of his older sister and brother-in-law, in a close-net family, and lived with them until he married in 1647. The painter, famous for his religious work, also painted everyday life giving us an insight into the 17th century. He was the father of 10 children. 

The Holy Family, c.1660-70, State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg, Russia

Murillo created warm images of Mary and Joseph playing with their happy baby, the man Catholics proclaim as fully human and fully Devine (a hypostatic union in the incarnation). The painter left us with depictions of the Holy Family as a close-net loving unit. St. Joseph is an appealing devoted father.😍

Here's a Victorian drawing of Queen Victoria, Prince Albert and 5 of their 9 children surrounding their Christmas tree at Windsor Castle where the royal family celebrated Christmas. Prince Albert was also known to be a loving, involved father, adored by his children. The Prince Consort popularized Christmas trees in Great Britain, a tradition he brought from his native Germany. Unlike Prince Albert, Queen Victoria was not a natural parent, but she was a mother who loved her children and they loved her. She put a ton of time into raising them, and they grew into 9 decent adults. Let's look at one of the royal couple's homes ...

The 2022 Christmas trees are up at Osborne on the Isle of Wight which Queen Victoria and Prince Albert bought as a private home in 1845 to get away with their brood from court life. Queen Victoria used Osborne House for 50 years to entertain family, foreign royals (many were also family), as well as, government ministers. After Prince Albert's early death in 1861, it became her favorite home. Her son, King Edward VII, wasn't as fond of it (as it was far from London) and after his mother's death, donated the Osborne estate to the British people. It is open to the public for tours, giving us a glimpse into the private lives of Queen Victoria and her family.

Another longtime Christmas tradition is (of course!) baking cookies. My family bakes the same cookies every year and I posted some of the recipes previously. Pictured above you see (in order): Pecan cookies👇, Russian Tea Cakes, Coconut Macrarooms, and Scottish Short Bread. Other varieties of cookies are scattered throughout THE SAVVY SHOPPER. My mother always requests that I make Mini Pecan Tassies and she always makes butter cookies at Christmas and Easter. Golly, decorating cookies after pulling them from the oven is not my thing! Starting over is a hassle!! Eating is my next step (which now you know is the reason I bake Scottish Short Bread instead of butter/sugar cookies.:) 

(Here is our recipe for) Pecan Cookies 🐫

Ingredients:

20 ounces ground pecans
4 large egg yolks
1/2 - 3/4 cup sugar (you decide how sweet)
a sprinkle of cinnamon

Optional: A little flour for your hands to help form the cookies.

Directions:

1) Using a fork mix the ingredients in a bowl.

2) Dip your hands in all-purpose flour to help form the cookies and drop in a parchment paper lined, or greased cookie sheet. If your cookie dough is too wet to handle, just add additional ground nuts (a tad more sugar for the addition) until you can handle the cookie dough.

3) Bake for 10 - 12 minutes in a preheated 350-degree F oven and remove to cool.

We always make pecan cookies and coconut macaroons at the same time since the former requires egg yolks while the latter, egg whites.

Photo: Macy's

My Dear Readers ... thank you for spending another year with me, and I welcome you who joined us recently. Here we're one global human family sharing our collective knowledge, humor, interests, tips, and holidays with acceptance of all cultures. I can't do it alone, so bring your uniqueness! Everybody is valued on THE SAVVY SHOPPER, and I love hearing from you!🌍🌎🌏 

May the Spirit of Christmas find you!🎄

xoxo💋

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Look Great And Classic In Spanx

Holiday sweets can make a body thankful for the invention of Spanx!🍪🍫🍬

Spanx was launched in 2000 by Sara Blakely with the aim of making women look and feel their slender best. Many people know that Spanx, the company, makes underwear and foundation garments to slim a silhouette, but they may not realize Spanx also produces male underwear, as well as, women's dresses, blazers, and trousers.

What's more, you never have to dry clean the attire. That's right! The blazers, pants, and dresses are machine washable!!

Although not exactly cheap, the stylish and shapely collection is sold at all major department stores including Macy's Bloomingdales, Saks, Kohls, Nordstrom, and Neiman Marcus --where it goes on sale from time to time. When it does, as much as I like the leggings which elongate the legs, at $89 they aren't what I'd spend my money on, but I think the business pants, blazers and dresses are a good investment. They look tailored and well made, plus you save on dry cleaning bills.

Wow, these trousers are gorgeous! They come in straight; flare; or wide legs; and are articles we tend to wear and hold onto for years.

I'd opt to save, not splurge on activewear, but would be on the look out and grab any Spanx leggings, t-shirts, or shorts that end up at T.J. Maxx, or go on sale at the major department stores. Without a doubt, Spanx is a quality brand to buy when the price is right!

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Should You Or Should You Not Buy Your Boss A Holiday Gift?

Photo: Judson Group

In the workplace sometimes a boss gives gifts to his/her staffers in appreciation for all their hard work. But as a general rule, an employee shouldn't buy his/her boss a holiday gift.🎁 

In the US, buying bosses presents is not common, nor expected, and sometimes frowned upon. No matter how much you like your boss, never forget your connection is primarily a business relationship, and you are the subordinate. In certain industries or positions, it could be interpreted as courting favor or a bride, especially if somebody at work is out to get you down the line. 

Companies worry about appearances and so should you. Sometimes corporate policies forbid it. You also want to avoid embarrassing your boss or causing other employees who live paycheck-to-paycheck discomfort by setting a precedent. What's more, I dislike the idea of asking everyone to chip in for a group gift for bosses because of the possibility of someone feeling pressure who can't afford it. If the office has petty cash available, it's fine to get approval for a group gift for the boss, but a better alternative is to get cookies, candies, or refreshments everyone in the department can partake in to build comradery.🎶

Feel free to give your boss a holiday card with a festive note you took time to write but it's also dicey unless one of you is leaving or you write a number of notes to a number of other employees too. I might share my homemade Christmas cookies, or if we have an especially good rapport, give a cute Christmas ornament costing around $10 (taking advantage of those early sales). It's a nice gesture for a boss who gives staff gifts but makes a big salary so s/he in no way needs a gift from a junior employee. Once I had a crafty assistant make me a handmade Christmas ornament, which was so thoughtful, time-consuming, and adorable I still have it years later.

You might also bend the rule if you work freelance and have a long-term, friendly, trusting relationship with no co-workers, office politics or misinterpretation to worry about. But even then good homemade cookies, candies, a craft, or just an inexpensive token gift with a lovely card is safer and gets the job done with aplomb.🔔

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Little Sky Stone For Last Minute Gifts

If you're looking for a last-minute gift for your bestie, a well-liked neighbor, or perhaps your cousin who's always got your back, why not give something that will last and not fade away after the holidays? Glut mindless shopping is so yesterday! One thoughtful, well-chosen gift is all you really need for the people in your life.

Little Sky Stone makes artesian, one-of-a-kind jewelry in sterling silver, 14k gold-plated, and 14k gold-filled metals with dainty genuine stones including opal, turquoise, emerald, garnet, citrine, amethyst, pearl, sapphire and druzy. (Druzy quartz is made up of tiny crystals that form on the surface of a stone.)

IMHO, customers aren't getting a super deal, but everyday earrings, rings, bracelets, and necklaces at reasonable and fair prices. Not great big stones, yet pretty little things with good design ... very appropriate and winning keepsakes for a bestie, a cousin, or a well-liked neighbor whose face you want to put a smile on and to say thanks for being you! 

Moreover, with gift-giving be equally good to yourself by considering your budget. With Little Sky Stone's lovely collection of unique artesian jewelry, there's truly no need to go into debt to spread some holiday cheer.

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The Wittelsbach-Graff Blue Diamond

On the left is the 35.56-carat cushion-shaped Wittelsbach diamond and on the right is the same diamond recut to 31.06 carats. Over billions of years, the element carbon (with a trace of boron) turned into a diamond. It's a stunning stone with a long history that raises a 21st-century conundrum to ponder. Let's begin the journey ...

The Wittelsbach-Graff diamond (↖left) compared to the Hope diamond

The rare blue diamond originates from Kollur Mine, India. King Felip IV of Spain is thought to have bought and included it in the dowry of his beloved 15-year-old daughter, Infanta Margaret Teresa in 1664 when she married Leopold I, the Holy Roman Emperor. The jewel was in the possession of the Habsburg family until it came to Munich, Germany in 1722 when Archduchess Maria Amalia, a Habsburg, married Karl of Bavaria of the Wittelsbach royal house. The gemstone then remained in the Wittelsbach family until it was sold in 1951 to a mystery buyer, then resold a few more times until in 2008 the London jeweler, Laurence Graff, bought it for $24.3 million. In 2010 the billionaire jeweler announced he had recut the diamond to get rid of its 350-year history of nicks, cuts, chips, and scratches from being set and reset into jewelry and a crown.

Erasing the history of the diamond to improve its girdle not only reduced the gemstone by 40%, but it has also started a controversy. Renamed the Wittelsbach-Graff diamond, the alterations enhanced its blue color from grey-blue to blue-blue and clarity from VS1 (very slightly included) to IF (internally flawless), as well as, arguably increased its monetary value by giving it a higher grade and modern cut.

So in the life of this diamond, there are 2 values at play, and what's right isn't always clear-cut, is it? The Habsburgs-Wittelsbachs wouldn't recognize their diamond today. Soooo what would you have done and why?

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Milani Rocio Roses Jewel/Gem Kits

If you have the ability to spot quality you'll find fabulous holiday gifts just about anywhere including at Walmart!

Milani is a stellar makeup brand for less on the same par as the luxury brands sold behind cosmetic counters at major department stores. I bought several shades of Milani's top-notch lipstick and blush at Ulta Beauty.

The following holiday kits and under-makeup primers are two examples of Milani's quality cosmetics for all the makeup mavens on your gift list. The 2 kit colors -- Luxe Jewel and Allure Gem --  are special holiday editions offered at an unbelievable steal for $14.97!!!

 

Here's what you get: 

• What Do We Think? Eyeshadow Palette – 6 rose gold, plum & soft pink mattes & shimmers
• Soft Focus Glow Complexion Enhancer – All-over complexion luminizer blurs & illuminates for a real-life filter effect for the face & body
• Color Statement Lipstick – Milani's best-selling cream lipstick formula is infused with nourishing vitamins A & C

🐪🐑🔔🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🐪🐑🔔

Here's what you get:

• Money Saving Bestie Eyeshadow Palette – 6 bronze & emerald-inspired mattes & shimmers
• Soft Focus Glow Complexion Enhancer – All-over complexion luminizer blurs & illuminates for a real-life filter effect for the face & body
• Color Statement Lipstick – Milani's best-selling cream lipstick formula is infused with nourishing vitamins A & C

🐪🐑🔔🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄🐪🐑🔔

The primers below are separate buys for stocking stuffers. They give makeup a smooth base with a matte finish to last throughout the day. Cost: $8 - $13.

Milani is so affordable and fabulous, you'll have pocket money left over to get yourself a special edition kit too. Well Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, and Happy Kwanzaa to you!🎁

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Consider A Water Flosser

My teeth are my most valuable possession and yet I hate flossing. Rarely do I have food stuck in between my teeth, it's the formation of plague I worry about and fight by flossing. 

Dentists agree if we don't floss properly or daily, using a water flosser is a good practice. Flossing isn't easy, it's tedious. Sliding dental thread in at just the right angles and not too forcefully ... who the heck knows if we are flossing properly? So right after buying a Philips Sonic Toothbrush for $40 I invested in a water flosser. 

Here are 3 top models both dentists and customers like: 

1) Waterpik ION Professional Cordless Water Flosser - (top image👆).  Very compact for small counters, its handle is detachable from its base during use. You have to plug the water flosser base into the wall to charge it about every 3 weeks.

2) Waterpik Aquarius - Rated as powerful in cleaning teeth as the Waterpik ION, but bulkier and stays in its charger plugged into the wall during use.

3) Philips Sonicare Power Flosser 3000 - the model I use right now. Philips makes very good dental tools according to several dentists and product review sites. This one also stays in its charging base plugged into the wall during use.

Overall, plug-in-the-wall water flossers are more powerful and clean your teeth better than portable handheld units. While considered a plug-in-the-wall water flosser, the jury is out on how long the Waterpik ION's lithium battery lasts. Although I prefer using it, the inconvenience of possibly having to replace a battery is a  job and expense I'd rather skip.

Using a water flosser requires a learning curve. At first, the process of water flossing is an epic wet mess like a tsunami in your bathroom. You'll shoot water EVERYWHERE! Practice makes perfect. Here are some tips: Hang your head down in the sink. I fill the water tank up past the waterline then leave the lid off in order to floss my entire mouth in one pass. Another trick is to leave the device turned off at the handle until you get it in place inside your mouth. Expect to get your hand drenched unless you master laser-like focus while flossing. I do wish the Philip's water flosser cylinder utensil rotated as you move it over the inside-backside of your teeth, but you still manage, and the reason I leave the lid off the water tank is there is always a little water left in the tank I like to pour out so the tank is completely dry the next time I use it.

I always use the maximum settings of 10 and deep cleaning. Water flossing once per day is enough, and it should be done before (not after) brushing your teeth to loosen and then brush away the plague.

Teeth are strong, yet delicate. Although our teeth are covered with the strongest and hardest mineral in our body, called enamel, that enamel can easily be broken down by sugar or a lack of oral hygiene. Not brushing, flossing, and getting regular teeth cleanings will lead to tooth decay, gum disease, and eventually tooth loss. Once gone, they cannot regenerate and are gone forever.

You'd think a jewelry lover like me would name a sentimental piece of jewelry as my most valuable possession, but you'd be wrong ... it's my pearly whites. A sonic toothbrush or water flosser is by far a more essential gift than a piece of jewelry!🎁

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