Showing posts with label jewelry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jewelry. Show all posts

Monday, January 30, 2023

About The Clarity Of Colored Gemstones

The standard for determining the value of colored gemstones is not the same as for diamonds. A diamond is a single chemical element: carbon, and setting its value is strict and straightforward, namely defined by the 4 "c"s of cut, carat, clarity, and color.

However unlike diamonds, colored gemstones are not a single chemical element, but a combination of elements, as well as, falling into different families of stones. The most important characteristic in determining a colored gemstone's value is not clarity but color.

While clarity is a consideration in evaluating the value of colored gemstones, it is a less important factor than it is for diamonds. In other words, inclusions (or internal flaws) are expected and more accepted in colored gemstones, as opposed to, diamonds.

What's more certain families (a/k/a categories or types) of colored gemstones have more inclusions than others.

The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) doesn't rate colored gemstones like they do diamonds, nevertheless, they have created a system for classifying colored gemstones into 3 types based on clarity, i.e., their inclination or natural tendency to have internal flaws. Let's discuss them!

Type 1
 are gemstones forming under the mildest geologic events and are found free of inclusions. They are eye clean and any inclusions they may have are so minor they are also loupe clean. It would take a powerful scope to detect any inclusions that exist. Type 1 gemstones include tanzanite, aquamarine, morganite, chrysoberyl, heliodor, blue zircon, blue topaz, and smoky quartz.

Type 2 gemstones form under more difficult geologic events and have more inclusions than type 1, but are still eye clean. Corundum (sapphire, ruby), quartz (amethyst, citrine), alexandrite, spinel, peridot, all zircon except blue, and garnet are examples of Type 2 gemstones. Inclusions may be seen with a loupe and are accepted as long as they don't take away from the beauty of the stones.

Type 3 gemstones have formed under the most violent of geologic events, thus they are more prone to cracks, bubbles, and impurities that are visible to the naked eye. Green and red emeralds (also called red beryl or bixbite), and paraiba tourmaline are examples of type 3 gemstones. Despite having more inclusions than sapphires, rubies, or diamonds, emeralds are among the most valuable gemstones on earth. Eye clean emeralds make up only 1% of the planet's supply and are extremely rare. An emerald's inclusions (called Jardins) are caused by trapped gas, liquid, and other minerals during the stone's formation. So common, Jardins are accepted as part of an emerald's identity and uniqueness.
Jewelers sometimes use the following terms to describe the clarity of colored gemstones, mostly when a specimen is heirloom quality and expensive:

Clarity Scale

IF – Internally Flawless
VVS – Very Very Slight Inclusions
VS – Very Slight Inclusions
SI – Slight Inclusions
I – Inclusions
TS – Translucent
O – Opaque 

As color is everything in colored gemstones, experts consider 1) hue - the actual color, 2) tone - lightness to darkness from 1 - 10, and 3) saturation - from brightness to dullness.

Aren't nature's beauties awesome!

(<--Right image from Jewelry Television)
Perfect is rare. Knowing color is the most important characteristic of colored gemstones helps you not miss out on some beautiful stones, and knowing which gemstones have more or fewer inclusions helps you either gravitate to the cleaner type 1 gemstones (above↑) ... or better yet, appreciate jewels in all their glory!
 

Tuesday, December 27, 2022

Gemstone Hardness Verses Toughness

Photo: Effy necklace, bracelet, and earrings from Macy's and the ring from Istdibs

When jewelry lovers select gemstones for everyday wear they usually think of diamonds for their hardness, but hardness is only half of the gemstone durability story.

Gemstone durability is a combination of hardness and toughness. Hardness refers to the surface strength of a stone to resist scratching. Harder stones can scratch softer stones. A diamond can scratch a sapphire, ruby, emerald, topaz, and on down the line of Moh's Hardness Scale. Only another diamond can scratch a diamond.
Sotheby's
But while hard, a diamond isn't tough, it's brittle and will chip, crack, or shatter if abused. It's why you should remove your rings while working with your hands. Although diamonds, a 10 on Moh's Hardness Scale is 4 times harder than sapphires, a 9, sapphires are tougher than diamonds, and it takes a greater force to shatter them.

Toughness refers to the inner strength of a gemstone to resist breakage under force or stress. A diamond is brittle due to its perfect cleavage, which is an atomic structure that runs parallel making the bonds between its planes weaker than gemstones with less parallel, or imperfect cleavage. Certain softer gemstones are tougher than diamonds, meaning less brittle and more difficult to break apart with blows or force.

So what's the toughest gemstone? There are picture clues.😏 It's jade. Geologists have a saying, " Jade (rating  6 - 7 in hardness) can't scratch a diamond, but jade can break a diamond."

WEJ
Jade is the national gemstone of Japan and is popular in many Asian cultures. For over 5,000 years jade has been fashioned into tools, sculptures, and jewelry. Originally jade was thought to be one mineral but in 1863, Frenchman Alexis Damour established that jade was in fact, 2 minerals, either jadeite 
(Na(Al, Fe3+)Si2O6or nephrite (Ca2(MgFe5Si8O22(OH)2). Jadeite is an aluminum-rich pyroxene while nephrite is a magnesium-rich amphibole. To the human eye, however, they are difficult (though not impossible for an expert) to tell apart.

Jadeite (at 6.5 - 7) is slightly harder than nephrite (at 6 - 6.5) and is in greater demand in Asian countries. Not only is Jadeite jade harder, but denser and easier to work with and polish into a shine. Sometimes jewelers dye jade but over time the dye can fade.
Photo: Sotheby's
Burma (now called Myanmar) produces jadeite, the most sought-after type of jade in Asian countries. 
Jadeite's most valued color is emerald green, but other colors include black, white, red, yellow, blue, purple, pink, grey, brown, and orange. The finest quality jadeite jade is pure green with high transparency and shine called imperial jade. Other prized jade is kingfisher jade — only slightly less intense than imperial jade; apple jade — a vivid yellow-green; and moss-in-snow jade — "translucent white with bright green veining, patches, or spots," according to The Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

Stronger than pearls and diamonds, jade is toughhh... pretty... and much of it affordable. Especially wearable on Christmas, St. Patrick's Day, and in the spring! Alas, I don't own jade. How about you?


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Wednesday, December 14, 2022

The Wittelsbach-Graff Blue Diamond

On the left is the 35.56-carat cushion-shaped Wittelsbach diamond and on the right is the same diamond recut to 31.06 carats. Over billions of years, the element carbon (with a trace of boron) turned into a diamond. It's a stunning stone with a long history that raises a 21st-century conundrum to ponder. Let's begin the journey ...

The Wittelsbach-Graff diamond (↖left) compared to the Hope diamond
The rare blue diamond originates from Kollur Mine, India. King Felip IV of Spain is thought to have bought and included it in the dowry of his beloved 15-year-old daughter, Infanta Margaret Teresa in 1664 when she married Leopold I, the Holy Roman Emperor. The jewel was in the possession of the Habsburg family until it came to Munich, Germany in 1722 when Archduchess Maria Amalia, a Habsburg, married Karl of Bavaria of the Wittelsbach royal house. The gemstone then remained in the Wittelsbach family until it was sold in 1951 to a mystery buyer, then resold a few more times until in 2008 the London jeweler, Laurence Graff, bought it for $24.3 million. In 2010 the billionaire jeweler announced he had recut the diamond to get rid of its 350-year history of nicks, cuts, chips, and scratches from being set and reset into jewelry and a crown.
Erasing the history of the diamond to improve its girdle not only reduced the gemstone by 40%, but it has also started a controversy. Renamed the Wittelsbach-Graff diamond, the alterations enhanced its blue color from grey-blue to blue-blue and clarity from VS1 (very slightly included) to IF (internally flawless), as well as, arguably increased its monetary value by giving it a higher grade and modern cut.

So in the life of this diamond, there are 2 values at play, and what's right isn't always clear-cut, is it? The Habsburgs-Wittelsbachs wouldn't recognize their diamond today. Soooo what would you have done and why?


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Monday, November 28, 2022

Fine Jewelry Under $125 As Gifts

Over the next 3 weeks, I'll write a few holiday gift idea blogs. Today I'll focus on reasonably priced fine jewelry under $125 (and that is before applying promotional codes for further reductions). It means sterling silver (a precious metal) with lab-grown white sapphires. It also makes excellent travel jewelry that dazzles and looks expensive.

I'm featuring Italo jewelry since I'm happy with my own Italo purchase  (shown here) -- the sapphires sparkle like mad! Read my review on Italo jewelry to know the good and what to avoid, namely having to return the jewelry. Try to forgo the hassle of returns if possible. Italo Jewelry is an online-only Italian manufacturer whose plant is located in China. The retailer is legitimate and does stand behind its jewelry, but customers must pay for return shipping on jewelry they don't like. So take a beat so you don't order mistakes!


What I like about Italo is its enormous selection of beautiful designs from classic to unique, huge enough to suit every possible taste. I wear my Italo jewelry often and it's durable. Of the offerings, the earrings are super affordable for lovely glittering pieces, and I think they're safer than giving rings as gifts. The necklaces will have more metal and stones and therefore cost more too. Throughout the blog are several of my favorite Italo earrings, which I'd be happy to receive!

Italo Jewelry seems to have a bigger collection ... more styles than its competitors who sell similar jewelry. My only experience is with Italo, so you'll have to research their competition for legitimacy and good customer service.


I don't gift rings simply because people work with their hands and if a stone falls out, there is no brick-and-mortar Italo shop to fix it, so it's likely cheaper to rebuy the jewelry than have it repaired. Earrings are less likely to sustain mishaps as they don't get banged around.

Italo jewelry comes nicely presented in boxes and ribbons. Inside is a silver polishing cloth, policy information, cleaning tips, and a travel pouch.

With Italo Jewelry, you're not paying an arm and a leg for what is real sterling silver and lab-grown white sapphires that (if taken care of) last so why buy fashion jewelry?


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Saturday, November 5, 2022

Trend Alert: Chunky Necklaces

Matthew Williams for Givenchy
While researching upcoming jewelry trends, I stumbled upon another craze predicted to come our way in 2022: Chunky Necklaces, but to be fair, chunky necklaces were also predicted to be a fad in 2020 as I reported here, so where have today's fashion editors been? I can only guess that with everybody staying home during COVID the trend got delayed until now. I also think regardless of what year it is, a chunky necklace is always timeless as a statement piece.🙂

It's a great reason to do a roundup of several beautiful and very wearable Chunky Necklaces designed by Givenchy's American creative director, Mathew Williams.


Photos courtesy of The New York Times of Givenchy during Paris Fashion Week.

Associates say Mr. Williams is calm, nice, and collaborative ... always asking his crew what they think of new designs. Many people who have worked with him say he really cares about the work, the design and is a bit of a Renaissance man who brings his interests of art and science to the worktable. He researches fabrics, materials, and their origins.

The left photo is from Saks and the right photo is from Givenchy

The left photo is from Mantle magazine and the right photo is from Neiman Marcus.

The left and right necklaces are available at Neiman Marcus. Many of the Givenchy necklaces come in silver, gold, or 2-tone.

Mr. Williams judges fashion by whether or not he would wear it. This American brings a touch of European urbanism to the House of Givenchy. The chunky padlock necklace is his creation. Givenchy's newest Creative Director "likes the idea that fashion can give us some sense of escape, beauty and ''imagination of the future,'' yet he also embraces ''tradition ... warmth, comfort, ease ... security ... (out of) knowing there's so much chaos around us.'' His work is also practical and accessible, with a trace of softness -- all of which are sure to become his signature at Givenchy. What I love about the chunky necklaces is there's something clean about them, and you would wear them off the runway as the design isn't over-the-top, excessive, or ridiculous. The top necklace is gorgeous! With Matthew Williams at the helmGivenchy is the fashion house to watch!




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Thursday, November 3, 2022

Trend Alert: Ear Stacking

Celebrity photos: Cosmopoltian - go here 

 A glance at the fashion runways gives us a clue about a fashion jewelry trend about to break in 2022: Ear Stacking. It appears celebrities and runway models are already rocking the trend. 

Photo: Cosmopolitan

Clip-ons are available for those who don't want to add multiple ear piercings. The higher up you pierce your ears, the more it hurts to do it.

Ear stacking can be expressed in your own style from dainty to chunky. Many of the photos feature another of this year's jewelry trends -- loops. But do loops ever really go out of style?



I wear earrings every day, and I won't lie: Although I like the look of ear stacking, I aim to keep my life simple by sticking with wearing a single pair of earrings per day. I have no desire to fuss with multiple earrings. I'd have to buy more earrings, as well as, style them. Yikes, how much time does THAT add to dressing in the morning?  


The places for ear stacking are from the bottom of the ear up, namely the lobe, upper lobe, helix, conch, rook, daith, tragus, and forward helix. Click here to learn where these parts of the ear are; how long it takes the piercings to heal; and how to stack your earrings. Fashionistas are bound to try it.



Enjoy the read from a knowledgeable source because for sure I will not be adding other piercings to my ears and therefore cannot speak from experience. 


Diamond studs will always be a girl's best friend. But the more the merrier? Clearly more expensive. You decide.


Like me, you may not flock to every fad, but now you know what's coming our way, jumping from the runway to main street.



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Thursday, October 6, 2022

Live As An Under Buyer

Today I'm playing a game called all the jewelry I'd buy at Macy's if I wasn't a mindful, Savvy Shopper. Sometimes I play this game at Tiffany, Hermès, Bergdorf Goodman, Chanel, Saks, or any number of retailers with upscale merchandise, but today let's play the game of jewelry web shopping at Macy's. 

Most of us have the good sense not to spend a million dollars for a piece of jewelry since it's much more than many of us could ever pay off. The temptation is greater for things we perceive as stretching our budget -- yes -- that we could somehow, someway reach with effort and a dose of wishful thinking. Nevertheless, if we are not realistic, mindful, savvy shoppers such pricey luxury buys will land us into credit card debt.

THE SAVVY SHOPPER way requires separating our wants from our needs. Sure we can splurge occasionally, but as a general rule, be an under buyer and seldom, rarely, or never become an impulse buyer. So often impulse buys are emotional purchases triggered when we are bored, stressed, or blue. Don't let regret, waste, clutter, or debt follow a day of retail therapy! Frequently going for a walk or exercising will lift our moods just as much as an impulse buy. Luckily I'm an under buyer because my walks take me to T.J. Maxx!
😊

What's more, the sibling of impulse buying is buying more than what we need. Buy enough (sometimes called creating a capsule of clothes, shoes, jewelry, etc.), not more than enough. It's likely my small New York City apartment keeps me in line by giving me the disciple to not bring home beautiful things I don't really need, but only think I do when standing in front of it.
 
Falling for beautiful, impractical and yet ultimately useless things will clutter up your home before you realize it! Always value your space as much as anything you put into it. To look its best a room needs the right ratio of space to furniture. Every nook and corner need not be filled with stuff whether it's furniture, clothes, handbags, shoes, nick-nacks, or even jewelry.

Moreover, it won't do your bank account any favors. COVID has taught us the importance of having an emergency fund for food and bills. As much as I love jewelry, I browse 99.99% of the time and buy .01% of the time. And the very few pieces I splurge on are well within my budget. Moreover, I know where to compromise: The stones are eye clean and not the biggest, most flawless, or most translucent stones I desire. At Tiffany, I only browse as its colored gemstones are the top of the line (i.e. budget-busters for regular people), and at other retailers, I'm still selective!

Over to the right is a gorgeous 4 7/8 t.w. carat emerald and diamond (1/2 carat diamond) ring I love and visit whenever I go to Macy's Herald Square, but any stone over 2 carats gets very pricey, so it stays at Macy's for me to peer at occasionally. The diamond stud earrings (↑above left) are called martini studs as the setting looks like martini glasses, and in my fantasy, I'd buy 4-carat studs, however, too expensive for me to undertake! [For the look, check out this white sapphire pair instead. Not affiliated with this blog, only a tip.]

Being financially responsible means focusing on the big picture: Your financial security. 
Separating your wants from your needs helps you to spend what you must and save what you should. Staying out of debt gives you more money to cover tomorrow's essentials. Plus freedom. Freedom from worry. Freedom from working just to pay bills. Freedom from losing your home.
All of today's featured pieces are classic and very wearable temptations. Although not buying, I love them all. Planning a splurge every now and then is fine if you are mindful (consider how often you'd wear it) and make the splurge one you can afford. Finally, if considering a purchase, think capsule, not collection. Stop buying after reaching enough! We don't need more than enough.


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