Thursday, January 12, 2023

When To Increase Your Retinol to 2.5%

Retinol (the non-proscription derivative of prescription strength Retin-A) is an anti-aging powerhouse. Dermatologists often call it the gold standard in promoting a more youthful appearance by helping to build collagen, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin tone. 

But to minimize the discomforting effects sometimes associated with retinol, like dryness, flaking, and raw sensitive skin, you have to start with a lower potency retinol such as .5% --> moving up to 1.0% --> then perhaps increase to 2.5% over time and before attempting prescription strength Retin-A (known as Tretinoin). 

Understand that a higher potency retinol isn't a better or more effective anti-aging serum. The consistency of using retinol trumps potency.

Some people with sensitive skin may never tolerate the prescription strength of Tretinoin; and virgin skin must begin with a lower strength retinol like .5%, often using it only once a week (the 1st month) until your skin can tolerate it 2xs a week (the 2nd month), then applying it 3xs a week (the 3rd month), and eventually, using retinol every night of the week. Only after your skin can tolerate a lower potency should you consider bumping up the strength of your retinol. It takes time for your skin to tolerate higher retinol strengths.

Always remember that the retinol is working to erase those lines and wrinkles at the strength your skin can tolerate it. Consistency, consistency, and consistency is the key to fighting the signs of aging and improving your skin. We expect quick fixes, but with retinol and other effective skincare ingredients, it may take 6 months or longer before you see the benefits.

I have been using drugstore retinol for a couple of years and only now will I try to bump up the potency to 2.5% strength, which I aim to use once a week and return to lower strengths (and bakuchiol) for the rest of the week before using 2.5% retinol more than once a week.

All the brands of 2.5% retinol featured on this blog sell on Amazon and Walmart for $10 - $14. Check the ingredients for extra benefits like hyaluronic acid (for hydration), vitamin C (an anti-antioxidant to protect and brighten the skin), and aloe (to smooth the skin), etc.

I bought the Mo Tulip Retinol (below๐Ÿ‘‡) at Walmart to try. So far the hyaluronic acid in the serum is super hydrating, and green tea has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant protective properties, but I'll have to use it longer to verify the effectiveness of its retinol.

With choices galore, you don't have to spend a fortune for a good retinol that really works, just look for transparency on the label to know exactly what you're getting.

๐Ÿ’…๐Ÿ’‹๐Ÿ‘—๐Ÿ‘ ๐Ÿ’…๐Ÿ’‹๐Ÿ‘—๐Ÿ‘ ๐Ÿ’…๐Ÿ’‹๐Ÿ‘—๐Ÿ‘ ๐Ÿ’…๐Ÿ’‹๐Ÿ‘—๐Ÿ‘ ๐Ÿ’…๐Ÿ’‹๐Ÿ‘—๐Ÿ‘ ๐Ÿ’…๐Ÿ’‹๐Ÿ‘—๐Ÿ‘ ๐Ÿ’…๐Ÿ’‹๐Ÿ‘—๐Ÿ‘ 

For folks with sensitive skin who can't tolerate retinol, dermatologists recommend using bakuchiol, a plant-derived retinol alternative. It offers the benefits of retinol without the side effects of retinol. Although bakuchiol takes a different path, it has been shown in a double-blind study to have the same collagen-stimulating genes as retinol. 

Three Ships is double the price of the above retinol, but the small batch brand comes highly recommended by dermatologists. Along with its high 2% bakuchiol,
Skin Hero serum also contains rosehip oil to brighten the skin; and the Dream Night cream has squalene plus seed butters as moisturizers. 
A small batch brand with excellent anti-aging ingredients. I can verify 1% bakuchiol, but I can't verify the percentage of retinol as 1% or 2.5%. My mother and I love IMGN bakuchiol and will add other IMGN items for her senior and still lovely skin.

Every skin type can use bakuchiol. Retinol has more studies behind it, which is why people whose skin tolerates it might use it instead of bakuchiol although bakuchiol looks very promising.

For other quality budget finds featured on THE SAVVY SHOPPER, see the links below this post. I try to find the best retinol serums in the $10 - $20 range because, over time, the expense of daily use adds up! The 2-ounce sizes backed by science for less are fabulous, and I've featured some of them. Many brands of budget-friendly retinol are on the market so you never have to go broke using retinol consistently.

Monday, January 9, 2023

Leather Biker Jackets: Let's Discuss Business Models

In last week's Dior blog I discussed how we can't always get what we want, but if you apply yourself you can often come close enough! So today let THE SAVVY SHOPPER take you shopping, and away we go ... 

At the top of the blog, we have a gorgeous and classic leather Dior Biker Jacket. The leather is goat skin which is durable leather, usually not as buttery soft as lambskin, but tough, enduring, and Dior-quality smooth. Cost: $5,700, a gasp-worthy sum for an average person. 

Let's say you don't want to part with 6 Grover Clevelands and you don't want to do without as you pine for a leather biker jacket! First, examine Dior's Baker Jacket to know what details you like about it so you can find something comparable for less moola.

All Saints $529 (left) and Bernaldo $269 right.

Now let's find several stellar brands that are more affordable than Dior. Some are still pricey (although not nearly so!) and those a Savvy Shopper keeps an eye on. Do frequent google searches, as well as, wait for sales!! 

Look at the online pre-loved markets also where you might even find your first love, the Dior leather jacket. If it's still too expensive, move on to your 2nd and 3rd choices. Decide if there are any bells and whistles you don't need that might lower the price (for examples (1) some of the biker jackets have belts and others don't; (2) some are more insulated for warmth than others). When the price is right, be ready to move the wish list jacket into your shopping cart.


Lauren Ralph Lauren $440 (left) and Rag and Bone $695.50 (right)


Sam Edelman $250 (left) and Rebecca Minkoff $498

Set leather jacket $455 (new) and preloved $212 here and $various here.

Know that the price of garments doesn't always reflect quality but instead follows a company's business model. For example, the apparel company Set has a lower price point as its business model than Dior, and yet both jackets are well-made. Retailers whose business model is to give customers good and fair value for the money are your friends. Figure out who they are by doing your research. Another example: Coach stands toe to toe with Dior and Chanel in quality and craftsmanship, yet doesn't market its leather goods as luxury. Buy from your friends to save those Grover Clevelands for your retirement!


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My Coach Bag Capsule + Stocking Stuffers

Sunday, January 8, 2023

The 2023 Pantone color of the year Is Viva Magenta

Every December Pantone studies fashion, art, music, home decor, and the internet to predict the color of the coming year. The 2023 Pantone color of the year, Viva Magenta, is bold and a sibling of crimson. It's a hybrid hue that is a balance between warm and cool, which makes it very wearable on a range of skin tones. I love it both as a main or pop of color!
Chanel always launches their classic flap bag in Pantone's color of the year, but unlike black with gold hardware, the flap bag in a color never holds its value on the resale market, and the bags after ongoing price hikes are super expensive.

Despite liking the double-flap bag in viva magenta, nowadays it would take my fairy godmother for me to consider acquiring the classic bag in any color. Here's one listed on Fashionphile, the resale market that still costs far too much!

As reported in the New York Times according to color scientists, technically magenta doesn't exist. No wavelength of light corresponds to it. Magenta is just an area where blue fades into red.

For sure, I won't get tired of this color, and I predict unlike the colors of other years, viva magenta will stick around indefinitely. It's too pretty and too wearable to leave after 2023 goes.



Viva magenta is the color of the leather skirt, not the sweater which is more pink than crimson, and as you can see the internet can vary the color on color swatches. We need to see it LIVE!



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Thursday, January 5, 2023

Useful: Bigger Bolder Bakers' Substitute Corn Syrup & Molasses

PhoPhoto: Bigger Bolder Baker

There are two baking ingredients I never have in my pantry because I rarely need them. With these substitute recipes, I may never have to buy them. Thanks to Gemma Stafford, a former chef, I can make them at home (with ingredients I always have) for when I get a notion to bake a pastry that calls for one or the other. I love Gemma's recipes, tips, and videos but her website has so many ads and popups it's slowwww to load and murder to scroll, therefore although I'll link her website here I'm reluctant to send readers over there to be frustrated, so I'm reposting her 2 substitute recipes below also:

 I) Substitute Corn Syrup

Ingredients:

2 cups (16oz/450g) sugar
3/4 cup (6floz/170ml) water
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar (there is no substitute for this)
2 teaspoons lemon juice (stops sugar from clumping)
a pinch of salt

Directions:

1) Toss the sugar, water, cream of tartar, lemon juice, and salt into a heavy saucepan.

2) Bring to a medium boil, stir until the sugar dissolves, then turn down the heat to a gentle boil and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes until the mixture reduces quite a bit. Once cooled the syrup thickens. 

Photo: Bigger Bolder Bakers

II) Substitute Molasses

Ingredients:

2 cups (16oz/450g) dark brown sugar
3/4 cups (6floz/170ml) water
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
2 teaspoons lemon juice freshly squeezed

Directions:

1) In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, add the dark brown sugar, water, cream of tartar, and lemon juice. Stir to dissolve the sugar.

2) Once the sugar dissolves, reduce the heat and simmer for 4 - 5 minutes until the mixture thickens. Cool and store in a sealed glass jar.

Gemma is an excellent baker and teacher and you should check out her how-to YouTube videos, but oi vay that website!

*****************************************************************************

So now let's bake something!

All blondie photos and recipe courtesy of ATK

Let's use our homemade corn syrup to make America's Test Kitchen's Brown Butter Blondies -- linked here -- another website with inconveniences that you can overcome by watching its videos on Youtube.

Ingredients:

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/4 teaspoons table salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
12 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 3/4 cups packed light brown sugar
3 large eggs
1/2 cup corn syrup
2 tablespoons vanilla extract
1 cup pecans, oven-toasted and chopped coarsely
1/2 cup milk chocolate chips
1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon flake sea salt, crumbled

Prepare a 13 x 9-inch baking pan with 2 sheets of aluminum foil with flaps (and crisscrossed +) so that you can lift the blondies up out of the pan after they are baked. Make sure you press the foil into the 4 corners of the pan and grease or use cooking spray on the foil.

Directions:

1) In a mixing bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients: flour, salt, and baking powder.

2) Melt the butter in a 10-inch skillet. Over medium heat, simmer the butter, whisking throughout until it's golden brown and has a nutty aroma, which gives the blondies a butterscotch flavor. Transfer to a large heat-proof mixing bowl.

3) Add the sugar to the hot butter and whisk. 

4) Next add the eggs, corn syrup, and vanilla. Whisk until smooth.

5) Stir in the flour mixture until fluffy. Test Kitchen uses a spatula to incorporate the ingredients.

6) Stir in the pecans and chocolate chips.

7) Spread evenly into the prepared baking pan and sprinkle to top with the flaked sea salt.

8) Bake in a preheated 350 degrees F oven for 35 - 40 minutes (turning the pan around at 20 minutes) until golden brown and the cake springs back to the touch.

9) Let the blondies cool completely in the pan before lifting the foil with the pastry out of the pan and onto a cutting board. Makes 24 bars.

Sometimes it takes a professional baker to perfect a substitution that works in our recipes. Thank you, Gemma Stafford (and Test Kitchen for the best blondies). Who wants to run to the supermarket every time you turn around, not to mention, stock 2 ingredients you rarely use! Now there's no need to do either.

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Wednesday, January 4, 2023

Laytner's Linen & Home

After 31 years on Manhattan's Upper East Side, Laytner's Linen & Home store closed its doors forever. Everyone in the neighborhood, including me, was heartbroken to see it go. It happened right before the pandemic because the 71-year-old owner retired, and his adult children (3 school teachers) didn't wish to take over the business. 

I loved stepping foot into the store (with its cozy decor and hardwood floor) about once every week or two just to browse and be greeted by the wonderful, friendly staff, who really knew us. Not only did the staff know their customers, but they were also knowledgeable about the merchandise and really gave on-target advice when you needed help. Moreover, customers got genuine value for the money. This store taught me what quality bedding is. The 100% cotton, linen, silk, and wool bedding, along with rugs and home goods, were super affordable and by going downstairs to the bargain basement, customers always found a steal! Never were we overcharged for quality goods in the store.๐Ÿ›

Silk throws
The sad news is the neighborhood shop is no more, BUT the good news is the retailer kept its online business open, so although its brick-and-mortar presence is sorely missed beyond measure, you can still buy their sheet sets, pillows, quits, bathroom towels, and various home goods. So at least we still have Laytner's quality and value, as well as, their warehouse sales! One is happening now!

I can't recommend Laytner's highly enough for anyone who lives in the USA from where it would make sense to order a pillow, robe, or towels without spending a fortune on shipping. I won't pretend it's as enjoyable as floating through the store and having the staff helping you, however, it's an online merchant you can 100% trust.

Alas, we had many mom-and-pop shops just like Laytner's a few years ago. When you could get quality bedding at fair prices anytime you visited, you never had to stock up and risk overbuying. At least we can still order online from Laytner's!๐Ÿ›


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Tuesday, January 3, 2023

Dior Rose Des Vents Double Sided Coat


Dior's Rose Des Vents Double-Sided Coat is super cute. Hooded and belted, it's 99% wool and 1% silk. Although I'm reluctant to pay $4,500 for the Dior designer name, I love Dior's style and this coat. Luckily I have 2 fashionable alpaca wool coats also made in Italy I bought years ago for a whole lot less and don't need another coat. But a gal can always get into fashion!

If you pine for the Dior wrap coat look, fortunately, there are a few budget-friendly options from other well-known brands that seem to be copying the Dior coat, or perhaps Dior copied them? So you don't have to pay the piper to get the vibe.


Know that the rose des vents pattern is unique and a signature of Dior. The inspired belted coats lack the pattern and hood and aren't reversible. They are also a wool blend, but still super stylish and a fair tradeoff for a much lower price tag. As Mick Jagger famously sang, "You can't always get what you want." But if you apply yourself, you can sometimes come close enough!๐Ÿ˜›
How do you feel about belted coats? I lean towards a cleaner look. I prefer buttons and snaps to a knotted belt closure. When people must fiddle with a belt, often they leave it untied. It's better to tie it in the back for neatness instead of letting it hang loose to possibly get lost.

Dior is always a fun browse for inspiration and quality!


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